The New York Spring/Summer
Ive already said what Ive had to say about Lincoln Center as the new venue and everyone else has said enough about it by now. I will only add that it was convenient; most everyone seemed to like it, and I hope to be going back there for many years to come as I cannot think of another spot that would be as perfect. That said, once inside the various venues, it was hard to remember that you were at Lincoln Center, and the iconically artistic location did not automatically impart a sense of art to a collection, nor did it make average or banal collections look better. As for the collections, while there are always exceptions to every rule when it comes to fashion, my quick overall impressions of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week for spring 2011 are as follows:
In general, there was a sense of graceful elegance and sophistication that imbued the collections not to mention a lot of truly wearable, desirable clothes. In one fell swoop, tough, hard edged, head to toe black suddenly looked so last season. On many runways, black was kept to a minimum or was missing altogether and the story was to be found in a lightening up with all sorts of skin toned, almost nude shades (from beige to camel) and white ruled! In fact, it was a veritable white out as pieces in optic white literally stormed runways; something in blanc not only frequently opened the show, but often ended it.
There was also the frequent employment of color, and strong shades were often artfully mixed together as it was at Marc Jacobs whose homage to YSL - down to the silhouettes, fabrics, hair, accessories, and yes - clashing colors, was anything but subtle. Its worth noting that as I am writing this, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons for Jil Sander, showing in Milan, made a strong case for bright colors, and in some cases, bright clashing colors, and its a sure bet that this will prove to be directional in the future. Meanwhile, there were periodic flashes of strong color, in addition to bold, graphic, ethnic, tribal, or art inspired patterns (often mixed), And while abbreviated shorts (a huge trend) and short dresses (though not too short: just a few inches above the knee), were still part of the story, many designers made a strong case for below the knee to floor length (in skirts and dresses); and not just for evening, but for daytime.