Editorial: Inaugural Fashion 2001: Bush League

by Marilyn Kirschner, editor-in-chief lookonline.com

What do George W's inauguration and the luxury houses Hermes and Louis Vuitton have in common? More than you think. The Ritz-Carlton Hotel chain is offering an 'Inauguration package' for $150,000. This entitles the proud participant to a fantastic suite at the luxurious Washington hotel, the full services of a butler, who will travel to your house and pack your bags, (you receive $30,000 worth of Louis Vuitton luggage, including a dog carrier), he will then unpack for you when you reach the hotel, and finally, make sure your clothes are pressed and ready for the weekend's festivities. In addition, you receive a selection of Hermes scarves and ties. And that's not all: you get a brand new Hermes tie and scarf every year for the next four years of 'W's' administration! This deal was also available for Clinton's last inauguration, at a mere $100,000, but there were no takers at the time! As of writing this, there were no reported 'takers' this time around, either!

Laura Bush is her own person, and there is absolutely nothing wrong with her adhering to a signature non- flamboyant, low-keyed fashion sense. Her look is one that announces that though she likes to look good, and be appropriately dressed, she is not fixated on Vogue Magazine's 'take' on style and fashion. And it's obvious that she does not consider being 'well-dressed' dependent on a wardrobe of Manolo Blahnik stilettos: like most political wives, or women politicians, she seems to always favor distinctly dowdy, 'sensible' pumps. In fact, in a recent article on Laura Bush that appeared in the N.Y.Times, ("Laura Bush Likes to See Everything in Its Place, Including Herself"), it was reported that her designer of choice, Michael Faircloth, revealed that 'he has shown her the same Stuart Weitzman pump with a more slender heel and a longer toe than she usually wears, and she has said: "not for me".! I guess you could say Laura is making a strong statement about her own fashion persona, and is saying to the fashion industry: "don't make me over!".

Actually, the well-documented gap between the dreams and fantasies of fashion designers and fashion glossies, and what real women really do wear couldn't be more evident in Laura Bush, a woman who can obviously afford to buy almost anything she wanted. The truth is, that most women around the country, particularly those with lots of money, don't really follow to the 'nth' degree what fashionistas proclaim to be 'the thing' from one season to the next, nor would they consider spending the large sums of money on clothes, shoes, and accessories that fashionistas are so inclined to do.

Case in point: for what has to be the biggest, most important event in her life (W's inauguration), Laura is not looking to the fashion world for advise on what to wear, but is collaborating with her longtime Dallas-based designer, 41 year old Michael Faircloth, whose claim to fame is that he designs the outfits for the Dallas Cowboy cheerleaders, and that he is the 'in-house' designer for the exclusive Lilly Dodson boutique. And while certainly the choice of an American designer seems a 'no-brainer' for this high- profile American event, Faircloth is hardly a household name within fashion's elite circles, lets face it.

Laura Bush is not an unattractive woman, and as Cathy Horyn pointed out in an article in the style section of the NY Times ("Who will be the Hostess with the Mostest in Bush ll?"): "there is talk in NY's chic echelons that the younger Mrs. Bush needs a makeover"..though Horyn herself doesn't seem to agree. Well, with all due respect, I have to say that whenever I have seen Laura Bush in her public outings, I have always felt that with real expert advice, she could look a lot better, and that she could really benefit from a more modern, contemporary hairstyle and make-up.

And I was never really 'blown' over with her stiff, predictable suit choices either. The loud purple plaid suit (not a Faircloth design) she wore to greet Hillary at her soon to be next home in Washington, was unflattering, though she does get high marks for a salt and pepper tweed version that she wore with just a double strand of pearls, and simple black tank.

I say, why not look as good as you can? And in this day and age, one can be an un-trendy conservative and a stylishly chic woman at the same time. In fact, this is a perfect time to be a conservative (well, maybe not politically- I'm not going there-but fashion-wise, anyway). When I think back to the international runways for fall/winter 2000, what comes to mind are all the perfectly tailored and lady-like suits, proper coats, coat dresses, conservative at-the-knee hemlines, pearls, and structured bags that seemed so appropriate for a first lady: these were clothes that one could easily imagine Jackie Kennedy wearing. In fact, many designers implied and/or blatantly cited the former first lady as muse and inspiration for their collections, including Tom Ford, for Gucci, whose chicly structured yet hip and modern leather coats, headscarves (so much chicer than those ridiculous brimmed hats we always see), and oversized shades conjured up an image of what this style icon might be wearing if JFK's inauguration were in the year 2001. Quite frankly, this outfit perfectly sums up what my 'fantasy' first lady for the millennium would wear! (See Gucci image above)

So with these images in mind, and because the runways for fall/winter 2000 were so replete with perfect 'first lady' fashions, I would like to offer my suggestions for the ultimate inaugural wardrobe for a first lady of the millennium-despite the fact that Laura's choices have already been made public. I realize I'm indulging in some fantasies, but, so what?! And although collections in Paris, Milan, and London all had terrific examples, I am selecting only from the New York collections, since this is an American event. Okay, so I think we can safely eliminate anything from Imitation of Christ, Daryl K, or Helmut Lang's spring/summer 'bondage' collection (although the his/her tuxedos from the fall line would be perfect 'le smokings' for one of Laura and George's balls...tuxedos are so 'in' right now!)

For the swearing-in ceremony, Laura is wearing a peacock blue (that predictable 'political wife' color, traditionally favored by her mother-in law, Barbara) coat and suit ensemble, and a large- brimmed 'flying saucer' Kokin hat. My choices would have been: Michael Kors' chic taupe trench suit (see image at top of page), with the jaunty fedora, or his elegant fur collared camel cashmere sweater jacket worn with matching turtleneck, and charcoal pinstripe pencil skirt. There were also wonderful red wool suits at Donna Karan and Carolina Herrera. And talk about a season to find the perfect 'proper Republican cloth coat'! I love Calvin Klein's self-belted charcoal tweed, Marc Jacobs' camel tweed funnel neck with leather trim, belted red or taupe double face with full skirt at Donna Karan, or tomato red fitted coat dress at Carolina Herrera.

And if Laura wanted to take some 'chances', and be both glamorous and warm, I would go with Marc Jacobs' fur collared camel herringbone belted tweed coat-which was one of the best of the season, or Michael Kors' gray/black/white argyle fur collared coat ensemble, sable collared argyle cashmere bathrobe coat, or his camel cashmere sable- collared coat with matching cashmere turtleneck, and camel/gray/brown argyle narrow skirt (worn with multi strands of pearls). And please...lose the big brimmed hat!

For the Inaugural ball, WWD ran a sketch of Faircloth's long red 'crystal embroidered chantilly lace' dress (sounds so very 'Mother of the Bride' to me). But Laura is hardly a 'hot mamma', and if red was really her choice, I would have selected from one of the long fire engine red chiffon beauties that were in Carolina Herrera's Madison Avenue store window recently: simply chic yet standout, there was a floor length tank with long scarf, a halter style, and a daring one shoulder number. And another modern and chic option would be one of Michael Kors' sleek gold or silver columns (see photo above) - fur collar optional - or even his ultra modern gold knee length two-piece dress.

For other discreet, conservative, covered up, and tailored choices, I love the idea of a coat dress, like Carolina Herrera's ivory beaded floor length princess shaped coat. And because 'day for night' is always tailored and modern, I would suggest Herrera's red leather fitted shirt paired with purple floor length chiffon skirt, or Ralph Lauren's wool menswear-inspired Prince of Wales fitted floor length coat worn over black sheer bow blouse and black satin trousers! Naturally, I would layer the chiffon blouse for discreet coverage.

And since the all- American, preppy, perennial shirtdress is enjoying such a fashion revival at the moment, why not do a shirtdress for night, with one of Oscar de la Renta, Carolina Herrera, or Badgley Mischka's beaded or charmeuse versions? I'm sure they would be happy to create a floor length version of this classic for the first lady, if she asked!

Of course, there's that whole cowboy/cowgirl chic 'thing' happening- even WWD ran a recent article on how 'W' will effect the jeans business! And there is all that talk surrounding the biggest event- the 'black tie and boots' ball: it seems obvious that the Texas Bushes are intent on injecting some of their Western blood into the new administration. So why not exhibit some of that grand American cowboy style? 'W' could don a fancy western belt and boots, and Laura could enlist Miguel Adrover to design a horse-emblazoned shirt and long skirt combo. Or she could wear one of Zang Toi's dramatic and unique beaded evening ensembles painted with Indian Western motif. And just think- Trent Lott could bring back the pheasant- feathered cowboy hat he was photographed in at 'W's ranch during the Florida recount- which looked so ridiculous at the time- and really celebrate in Western style!

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