tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-33138642008-07-24T12:45:42.782-04:00DAILY FASHION REPORTErnesthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02772967757760907864noreply@blogger.comBlogger934125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3313864.post-23701847376729873252008-07-24T12:43:00.001-04:002008-07-24T12:45:42.811-04:00<strong><span style="font-size:180%;">“I’ll Have What She’s Having”</span></strong><br /><br />I suppose you can blame it on the heat, or perhaps I’m just having one of those ‘senior moments’….(LOL I’m not that old…but as I said…the subject of age has been on my mind as of late). But I realized that I left a couple of things out of my most recent blog, “Aging Grace’fully” which I wanted to share with you. I find them to be boldly empowering for different reasons. While I quoted some of what Tonne Goodman said, in her August Vogue pictorial (regarding the advantages of getting older and tips for looking chic forever), she made some observations that I thought were ‘right’ on and so I am reprinting the entire text:<br /><br />“Once you are comfortable in your own skin, which ideally you are by the time you are a little older, and you have gone through being fashion-conscious, you can freely decide exactly what you want to wear whenever you want to wear it. You can choose classic clothes day and night, and you never have to feel the need to embellish yourself in something that you don’t believe in. What you put on is an expression of who you are and how well you know yourself. If you need to have a covered arm, you should wear a covered arm; if you prefer to wear a flat than a heel, then there are great sandals to wear all the time- and a sandal with an evening gown that’s a minimal, simple sheath exemplifies a certain elegance that is understated and confident. Style becomes more important than fashion. What’s the famous thing that Diana Vreeland said? “Elegance is refusal.” It is important to appreciate current events and to be involved, to support the environmentally sound practices going on now, from the fabric used for clothes, to shopping organically and locally, to refusing to use plastic shopping bags. I guess once a hippie, always a hippie. After all, what were we doing back in the sixties? We dressed to make a statement. And it is still vital to do that today.”<br /><br />Secondly, one of the most compelling (actually, titillating would be a better description), columns in Vogue’s August issue really has nothing to do with fashion (well, on second thought, it does, because fashion and sex are indeed related). “The Other Woman at 75”, written by Jane Juska, is required reading for anyone who balks at the idea that an ‘older’ woman can possibly fall giddyingly in love or who bristles at the notion that a septuagenarian can enjoy a “strong sexual drive” .<br /><br />Juska, (“old enough to know better”), is disarmingly candid as she goes into detail about her affair with someone else’s husband. She recounts how, after a failed marriage at the age of 37, and a “crushing” affair with a married man which ended at 50, she began advertising for sex in The New York Review of Books at the age of 66. (Talk about a late bloomer). This led to numerous “passionate encounters with all kinds of men”; her liberated exploits became the subject of a memoir, “A Round-Heeled Woman”.<br /><br />It was at her first book signing in Berkeley, that she met an older, handsome, married man, who has been her bed mate, and most importantly, soul mate, for the past 5 years. She does not seek to glorify, rationalize or condone her actions (the picture she paints has warts and all and she is forthcoming about the disadvantages of such a relationship), nor is she trying to convince others to follow her lead. This is a situation that happens to work, meets her specific needs, and fulfills her life. In case you’re wondering….no..I am not encouraging you to go out and find someone else’s husband. But in the same way that enjoying fashion and living a stylish life does not have an ‘expiration date’ which ends at a ‘certain age’, finding love and passion is not something that is only for the young.<br /><br />-Marilyn KirschnerErnesthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02772967757760907864noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3313864.post-91804305653027375492008-07-22T07:20:00.003-04:002008-07-22T08:15:42.992-04:00<span style="font-size:180%;"><strong>Aging ‘Grace’fully</strong></span><br /><br />"The old gray mare, she ain’t what she used to be"; "Long in the tooth"….If I appear to have horses on my mind, you’re right (and if you read my upcoming Member’s Report, you’ll learn why). As for the age issue…it’s on everyone’s mind these days and that includes Vogue Magazine, who has traditionally turned their August issue into an ‘age issue’. Sandwiched in between the thin July book, and right before their giant September blockbuster, Anna (nearing 60 herself) has apparently decided that there is no better time to focus on the subject of age while hawking new fall clothes and accessories.<br /><br />Undoubtedly, dressing ‘age appropriate’ (whatever that means), and choosing clothes that flatter and look stylish, if you are over a certain age, is a challenge for many (though I for one, don’t think it’s as challenging as finding amazing items at affordable prices). Aha… Vogue wanted to tackle that too, judging by their cover lines which read, "The age(less) issue..Vogue’s guide to looking amazing at every decade, on any budget, through every season". Tall order.<br />But I will say that I found the issue to be well done, and one portfolio was particularly inspired. After the fall collections were over, Anna Wintour asked five Vogue fashion editors, each with her own look and style, and each representing a different decade (Grace Coddington, 60’s; Tonne Goodman 50’s; Elissa Santisi, 40’s; Marie Amelie Sauve, 30’s; Tabitha Simmons, 20’s) what they will wear this fall, how they’ll wear it, and why. They were then asked to style models in their own image.<br /><br />Hands down the best spread was Grace Coddington, "Graceful Elegance’ (photographed by Steven Meisel). With the help of a glorious wild mane of red hair, her zany cats (Coddington’s admitted favorite accessories), and an almost all black ‘fuss free’ wardrobe which included a chic Balenciaga cocoon coat, a Marni embroidered dress, a Junya Watanabe Comme des Garcons long gown, and a Proenza Schouler gray coat, model Karen Elson was transformed into an almost spitting image of the celebrated editor (maybe a bit younger but very believable nonetheless and I have to admit that I initially thought it was Grace herself, courtesy amazing makeup).<br />The second ‘runner up’ was Tonne Goodman, (‘Clean Conscience’ also photographed by Meisel), who selected model Tanya Dziahileva to portray her in the signature minimalistic yet luxurious basics that remain very true to Goodman’s aesthetic.<br /><br />There are many ways to tackle the problem of dressing for one’s age, and no wrongs or rights, (this is not an exact science and in the end, one has to follow one’s own instincts and stay true to oneself). Having said that, you could do a lot worse than to take some helpful hints and pointers from pros who admittedly spend their professional lives looking at clothes. For example: Grace Coddington says she "doesn’t feel obliged to buy a lot of new things" but always gets "a coat" each season; Elissa Santisi strives for "the perfect balance between youthful attitude and grown up glamour"; Marie Amelie Sauve claims she will "never wear anything that’s overtly sexy" and prefers "sexy in a conceptual way" (hence, she will pair a sexy dress, like the fetching Martin Margiela which is shown on the Vogue pages) with flats; Tabitha Simmons admits the "only rule in your 20’s is that there are no rules" (ah…to be 20 again!); and Tonne Goodman believes in buying clothes that "will last an eternity" and observes, "there is an intelligence to classic, enduring design. It is never superficial". But perhaps her best remark was, "once you are comfortable in your own skin, which ideally you are by the time you are a little older, and you have gone through being fashion-conscious, you can freely decide exactly what you want to wear whenever you want to wear it."<br /><br />I think it’s safe to say many women out there would be interested to know what fashion editors select for themselves, and personalizing the pages- which included illustrations, photographs, quotes, etc. - was compelling. What was missing was Anna Wintour herself. Though I don’t think she would have agreed to take part in a portfolio where she dressed a model in her own image (LOL), I think her readers would have liked to know what her fall choices might be.<br /><br />Another standout portfolio was ‘The Firecraker’ photographed by Jonathan Becker, featuring the fabulous looking Roberta McCain, the rule breaking inspirational 96 year old mother of John McCain. It is really hard to believe she is nearing 100 and quite frankly, she looks more youthful than Gwyneth Paltrow, who appears in a double page spread, for a Tod’s advertisement. I had to look twice to make sure it was indeed the actress.<br /><br />-Marilyn KirschnerErnesthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02772967757760907864noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3313864.post-44219358254584228172008-07-18T10:27:00.004-04:002008-07-18T15:26:23.122-04:00<a href="http://www.lookonline.com/betterbets-new4.html"><strong><span style="font-size:180%;">Better Bets! Number 4</span></strong> </a><br /><br />Rhonda Erb's new bi-weekly column on discovering the new and interesting in New York retail, beauty, fashion, accessories and events.Ernesthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02772967757760907864noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3313864.post-35771846167399855112008-07-15T16:31:00.009-04:002008-07-16T09:09:10.456-04:00<strong><span style="font-size:180%;">“I (Don’t) Feel Bad About My Neck”</span></strong><br /><br /><img src="http://lookonline.com/blogfiles/robertafeymann-1.jpg" /><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">Roberta Freymann's stone encrusted bib<br /></span><br /> Nora Ephron humorously pointed out that the neck is one part of the body that does not age too well and let’s face it, most of us don’t exactly resemble Audrey Hepburn in that - or any other - department. But if you seriously don’t love your neck, you’re in luck.<br /><br /> How could you possibly feel bad about your neck when there are so many fashionable ways to hide, cover, or camouflage it? Of course, why just stop at the neck? If you, like myself, tuned in to the Miss Universe contest this past Sunday night (which amounted to watching a two hour parade of the world’s most glorious creatures with impossibly perfect bodies) it would have been hard to wake up on Monday morning and feel good about any part of yourself…. but that’s another story.<br /><br />Long before Nicolas Guesquiere seduced an entire generation into totally obscuring their necks with tightly wound long lengths of decidedly ethnic fringed and sometimes coin decorated scarves (which he made all the more hip and au courant when paired with shrunken schoolboy blazers and skinny jodhpurs for fall 2007), I was covering my neck with mufflers, scarves, turtlenecks, starched shirt collars, etc. And while this is not only easy, practical, and necessary in the cold winter months, I have been known to apply the same tactics year round, raiding my drawers for favorite vintage Hermes and Pucci silk squares, long, narrow Missonis, and YSL cotton voiles. And then of course, there are the necklaces and neck pieces.<br /><br />Unless you’re living under rock, you already know that multi strands of pearls, bold chains, and especially, statement making necklaces, are de rigueur as of late. Designers (not the least of whom is Miuccia Prada) are even creating clothing (dresses and tops) complete with jewel encrusted collars, necklaces, and necklines. In fact, Richard Chai’s debut collaboration for www.target.com next month features a wonderfully graphic cotton tunic with a jewel encrusted top, which will sell for about $50.<br /><br /><img src="http://lookonline.com/blogfiles/winedrop-1.jpg" /><br /><br />All of the above examples are an easy way to add instant pizzazz and surface interest (particularly to simple classic pieces), and they do wonders for a neck that can use a bit of obscuring. And as luck would have it, there is a shopping destination right here in New York where one can find some of the most distinctive examples around: Roberta Freymann, 153 East 70th Street, 212 585 3767, <a href="http://www.roberta-freymann.com/">http://www.roberta-freymann.com/</a> .<br /><br />Ms. Freymann’s colorful, richly bohemian, and thoroughly addictive eponymous shop, has an unapologetically global, Eastern (particularly India) flavor. It’s filled with surprisingly well priced caftans, paisley print silk scarves, resin bangles, etc., and shopping there is like taking a trip to an exotic locale without having to leave town or spend money on airfare. A passionate world traveler and collector with an amazing eye, she boasts an impressive resume and is lucky enough to be doing what she loves most. She not only has an ever growing and loyal customer base (including some of the city’s most glamorous and high profile gals around town), but an ever growing empire. In addition to her two story east 70th street shop (which is housed in a landmark building), she opened Roberta Roller Rabbit, (1019 Lexington Avenue) a few years ago (it is stocked with apparel and linens made from Indian block print fabrics), and several years ago, she added an outpost in Easthampton (66 Newtown Lane, 631 329 5828).<br /><br />Because I am always on the lookout for amazing necklaces and clothing with unusual neck ‘treatments’ (especially those that are cleverly designed and highly wearable), I was immediately drawn to the ornate semiprecious stone-encrusted bib necklaces which are made in India and strung on a gilded silk cord (they range in price from $200 - $250). Not only are they beautiful and eye catching but they are available in many different varieties and colorations and I can attest to the fact that it’s virtually impossible to pick just one. Because they are very lightweight, and imminently packable, they are perfect for taking away for a summer weekend jaunt (or on any trip at all). And since they are adjustable to choker length or a bit longer, they can be worn in a dizzying variety of ways: to dress up a simple cotton t shirt, add interest to the neckline of a simple shift or chemise, or tied under the collar of a shirt or shirt dress. Talk about versatile!<br /><br /><img src="http://lookonline.com/blogfiles/winedrop-3.jpg" /><br /><br />Similarly, I was taken by the $250 sleeveless heavy stretch satin top whose neckline is embroidered with tiny pearls, beads, and sequins. Available in red, yellow, royal blue (my favorite), and gray, this would not only look great paired with white jeans (or any jeans for that matter), but worn with shorts, Bermudas, or a skirt in any shape or length. For press inquiries: contact Dennis Gleason, Company Agenda at dennis@companyagenda.com.<br /><br /><br /><img src="http://lookonline.com/blogfiles/madgenovel-1.jpg" /><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">Collectibles by Madge Novel</span><br /><br />Speaking about statement making necklaces, if your penchant is unique, one of a kind collectibles (with an art deco flavor), have I got a vintage dealer for you! Madge Novel is a native New Yorker who resides in Washington D.C. She has always been both creative and good with her hands and originally wanted to be a fashion illustrator. She attended the School of Visual Arts and the Traphagen School of Fashion in Manhattan. At one point, she dabbled in making (and selling) her own line of jewelry (which landed her in New York Magazine’s Best Bets). She also knitted her own sweaters (in the 80’s, Joan Vass invited her to knit for her after seeing her wear one of her unusual designs).<br /><br /><img src="http://lookonline.com/blogfiles/madgenovel-2.JPG" /><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">Collectibles by Madge Novel</span><br /><br />An incurable collector with a discerning eye, she, like Ms. Freymann, has turned her hobby and her passion, into a business and has amassed loyal customers and fans along the way. Her enviable collection of whimsical and iconic Enid Collins bags, was spotlighted in last June’s issue of “Country Home” Magazine, but Ms. Novel admits that jewelry is the major focus of her collection (prices range from about $100 - $400). Last year, she collaborated with good friend, Julie Wolfe, who designs interesting jewelry for Barney’s and Harvey Nichols (she did some “picking” for her and sold her a number of her own rhinestone pieces which she incorporated into her designs).<br /><br /><img src="http://lookonline.com/blogfiles/madgenovel-3.jpg" /><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">Collectibles by Madge Novel</span><br /><br />Recently, Julie sent the photos of some of those pieces to Vogue, and they are considering using them on the resort pages in the November issue. In addition, the manager of Ralph Lauren in Washington, D.C. “flipped over” some of Madge’s deco turquoise necklaces and has been trying to convince the Ralph Lauren General Manager to do a trunk show with some of her things.<br /><br /><img src="http://lookonline.com/blogfiles/madgenovel-haskellandelsa.jpg" /><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">Signed pieces by Mirian Haskell & Elsa Schiaparelli </span><br /><br />While she has a fondness for Miriam Haskell and Elsa Schiaparelli, Ms. Novel says she is “not at all concerned whether pieces are signed or by well known designers or even from a particular period”. “I buy what I love. I go by my own aesthetic instinct and it seems to work. It's the mix of pieces that I find exciting and that creates the look.”<br /><br />For the time being, she can be contacted via her e-mail address: madgenovel02@comcast.net, but will soon be establishing a website and has plans to open an online store on "Trocadero" an online mall. If someone is interested in seeing her collection (which she describes as “ever-changing”) she can send pictures or meet with them whether in Washington or New York.<br /><br />Right now, she is doing the FIFI venue in Washington but will eventually do other shows in New York. In addition, Madge will do personal shopping for pieces and is always interested in buying.<br /><br />So, in the same way that you don’t need to resort to a surgical neck lift (if you don’t like your neck you can simply indulge in some pretty fabulous accessories), you don’t need to resort to a painful and expensive boob lift you can simply buy a new fashion gadget. Bralief (<a href="http://www.bralief.com">www.bralief.com</a>) promises to “provide an alternative to surgery” while improving posture, while giving you an instant breast lift, and preventing the straps from falling off. All for the low price of $9.95 each or $22.95 for a pack of three. Available in black, tan, white, and pink and white, the proceeds of the net sales will be donated to Breast Cancer Research.<br /><br />-Marilyn KirschnerErnesthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02772967757760907864noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3313864.post-18947984293249241022008-07-07T14:55:00.003-04:002008-07-07T15:22:20.394-04:00<a href="http://lookonline.com/panel.html"><strong><span style="font-size:180%;">Panel Discussion: Why Are So Many of Today's Fashion Editors So Young?</span></strong> </a><br /><br />Several of the editors and writers at LOL were taking a coffee break in between shows during NY fashion week a number of years back, when one person suddenly asked,"Why are so many of today's fashion editors young? Is this good or bad for fashion?" LOL decided to investigate. We surveyed members of the fashion community to get their take. Some of them have been in the business for as little as three years and others for more than 20. The one thing they had in common: interesting, bold opinions. So, are young fashion editors good or bad for the fashion industry? Go to <a href="http://lookonline.com/panel.html">http://lookonline.com/panel.html</a> and judge for yourself.<br /><br /><em>(Editor's note: This discussion was held in 1998. It is as true today as when we first wrote this article.)</em>Ernesthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02772967757760907864noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3313864.post-81924027454287625072008-06-09T07:24:00.008-04:002008-07-07T15:20:19.825-04:00<strong><span style="font-size:180%;">Troubling 'Times’</span></strong><br /><br /><img src="http://lookonline.com/blogfiles/forever21.jpg" /><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">Forever 21 black and white spectator ‘Ollie’ oxford pumps</span><br /><br />Just when you thought the economic outlook could not get any worse, the Dow Jones plummeted, the unemployment rate surged to an all time high rate of 5.5 percent, and the price of oil rose to a record breaking $140 a barrel. To say this is a difficult time for businesses of all kinds (particularly fashion retail), is an understatement.<br /><br />And so it couldn’t have more perfect timing for “Retail’s Moment of Redefinition” (in the consumer century), last week’s Fashion Group International event which gave new meaning to the phrase, “retail therapy”. The mission of this reception, luncheon, and presentation, was to explore why merchandising for a mass consumer audience no longer works, forecast business for the remainder of the decade, to examine the ever changing shopping habits of the consumer, the effects of globalization on the market place, and the way in which the current recession is impacting on retail.<br /><br />The highlight of the event was a panel discussion moderated by Joyce Greenberg, Managing Director, Financo, INC, with panelists Rick Darling, President, LI &amp; Fung, Chris Lee, Senior Vice President, Forever 21 (which Ms. Greenberg hailed as the “king of U.S. fashion with huge global aspirations”), and Diane Hamilton, President &amp; COO, Brooks Brothers (“THE iconic brand” according to Ms. Greenberg).<br /><br />To kick things off, Robin Lewis, Vice President, Head of Retail Vertical, Vantage Marketplace LLC, delivered his “Economic Overview”. While it was dubbed ominously, "The Perfect Storm” (he explained that currently, there are three weather fronts colliding for that ‘perfect storm’: 1- Sub prime mortgage meltdown, 2-Decelerating GDP Growth, 3-Decelerating income), he was intent on injecting some lightheartedness into the sobering proceedings, seemed intent on seeing that fictional glass ‘half full’ and repeatedly sought to find some “good news” within the bad.. For example, when he was first introduced, he joked that “the good news is that I’m not an accountant” and when he quoted Alan Greenspan, who reported that there’s a “better than 50% chance" we are headed for a recession, Mr. Lewis noted that “we might avoid a technical recession”. And even if we don’t, the “good news” is that we will “finally get rid of some of the excess and reach a balance between supply and demand”.<br /><br />But perhaps the key point he made is that “the consumer is in charge” and he outlined some behavioral shifts the retailer should understand (these were displayed in large letters on a monitor behind him, summarzied as ‘From’ and ‘To’). The way he sees it, the shift is ‘from’ needing stuff ‘to’ demanding experiences, ‘from’ conformity ‘to’ customization, ‘from’ plutocracy ‘to’ democracy, ‘from’ new ‘to’ new and now”. That’s where the idea of ‘fast fashion’ comes in. As he observed, “It’s a Zaro world and a Forever 21 world. It’s an Internet world, and it’s a world of new products and new services 24/7”.<br /><br />He then listed 6 key points for an “Emerging New Business Mode” (1- Traditional retail is evolving to a hybrid specialty chain model, 2- There are 'mini' formats for many neighborhoods (the internet, catalogue, and other direct channels of opportunity), 3-Traditional wholesalers are integrating forward, 4- Niche branding by specialty chain brands, 5- Accelerated brand proliferation and new lifestyle cycles (continuous rapid innovation and differentiation), 6- Going global. And then he announced a "new business paradigm" which is exemplified by the fact that the “the consumer has the power of access and control and the supplier has need for access and control” .<br /><br />This was a perfect segue into the panel discussion that followed. Rick Darling enumerated on four major trends which are making a difference: 1- "globalization of sourcing, 2- the economies of the world are very much in sync, 3- international retailers are entering markets they had once been afraid to enter; 4- it's all about differentiation (exclusive brands for retailers). Chris Lee proudly described Forever 21, founded in 1984, as a "fast food department store", somewhat akin to a "candy store" with "Wal-Mart prices". They made 1.3 billion last year and their goal is to "get the best merchandise as quickly as possible" and as such, they compete with H&amp;M and Target. When asked asked by a member of the audience if there is a 'target' age group, he wisely answered that "the 21st century is about lifstyle, it's not about age." Indeed it is. My most favorite recent purchase was acquired through www.forever21.com. They are a pair of wonderfully distinctive black and white spectator ‘Ollie’ oxford pumps which are comfortable enough to really walk in since they sport a chunky 1 1/2 inch heel, never fail to illicit compliments, and cost a mere $20. Now, that's what I call ‘retail therapy’, recession or not.<br /><br />As part of their expansion plans, they are building malls in South Korea and getting more into menswear (this will give the guys who shop with their girlfriends, wives, etc., something to buy.<br /><br />Expansion plans also figure prominently in Brooks Brother's future. According to Diane Hamilton, it's all about "the history of a true American icon" (the company was founded in 1818 and they are celebrating their 190th anniversary). She admits the biggest challenge she is faced with is how to "redefine an iconic brand" which is known for offering a "high quality product at good value for our customers". Ms. Hamilton admitted that attempts to change it's identity in the 70's, 80's, and 90's were unsuccessful. She said the new Black Fleece Collection by Thome Browne, (a "better luxury brand") is doing well, and so are the brand's 100 regular price retail stores in the U.S. (though outlet business "continues to be strong"). In the final analysis, it's customer relationships that are "major" .Happily, their customer has "given them the go ahead to expand brands" (so expect to see men's and women's fragrances, among other things, in the future).<br /><br /><br /><strong>A New York Times Gaffe...</strong><br /><br />By the way, speaking of troubling 'times' (and in this case I mean that literally)...perhaps one can blame it on disorientation caused by the horrible state of the economy, the suffering heat wave, or the distraction of two climbers who (within two hours) ‘scaled’ the heights of The New York Times building on Friday….but still, none of the above can explain or condone the glaring typo that I found in the Evening Hours section of ‘Sunday Styles’. In the -column showing pictures from last Monday’s CFDA Awards, one guest, Mara Hutton was described as wearing a “vintage Jeffrey Beene”. We all make mistakes for sure…but how someone at the NYT did not catch this is unbelievable. I showed this to a friend who is not even involved in the fashion business, and she caught the mistake immediately. I'm sure there were a lot of red faces on Sunday morning -- and not from the heat of the day.<br /><br />- Marilyn KirschnerErnesthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02772967757760907864noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3313864.post-47562657509317178902008-06-03T14:40:00.013-04:002008-06-03T23:19:47.835-04:00<strong><span style="font-size:180%;">“I knew Yves Saint Laurent, and you’re no Yves Saint Laurent”</span></strong><br /><br /><img src="http://lookonline.com/blogfiles/ysl-hommage.jpg" /> <br /><br /> There was only one Yves Saint Laurent and there will never be another. While there are talents and visionaries to be sure (and a new generation of promising torch bearers), sadly, too many of today’s ‘designers’ don’t deserve to be mentioned in the same breath as Yves, Unfortunately, some are little more than overly hyped pretty boy (or girl) posers, egocentric control freaks with no talent, and blatant copycats with no original thoughts of their own (but who have at their disposal powerful publicists with lots of muscle).<br /><br /> And talk about timing. As if to heighten this reality and exaggerate the situation, on Monday evening, just as the eyes of the fashion world were to be focused on the ‘best of the best’ (the honorees, nominees, and recipients of the 2008 CFDA Awards), the one name that loomed large over the New York Public Library, casting its magic spell, was that of Yves Saint Laurent. <br /><br /><img src="http://lookonline.com/blogfiles/cfda08-dvf.JPG"/><br />Diane von Furstenberg in a vintage black YSL tuxedo pantsuit<br /><br />So influential and revered was this fashion legend, that WWD needed two consecutive issues (on Monday and Tuesday) to cover the news of his death, and chronicle his life and legacy. In addition to quotes from designers, social figures, and celebrities, who weighed in on what Yves meant to them, WWD ran some of YSL’s musings through the years. My favorites included: <br /><blockquote><br />“So they have crowned me king. Look what happened to all the other kings in France.” 1968 <br /><br />“In the future, men and women will dress more and more alike. I want to create clothes for women like men’s clothes.” 1968<br /><br /> “Classics continue all the time because they have style, not ‘fashion.’” 1981<br /><br /> “I have said before that the most beautiful makeup of a woman is passion. But cosmetics are easier to buy.” 1978<br /><br /> “I’m happy to be copied, otherwise I wouldn’t be doing my job well.” 1998; “I have always done black. I don’t do ‘message’ couture.” 1968<br /><br /> “What a woman needs is a black turtleneck sweater, a straight skirt and a man to love her.”, 1989<br /></blockquote><br />His chic, elegant, intelligent muse was one who exhibited strength of character and true personal style and, as such, could not be more further removed from the self consciously mass produced, ‘sexy’ IT bag, stiletto heeled trio starring in “Sex and the City”, (a movie which met with rather unfavorable reviews but nonetheless found itself in first place after débuting this weekend. Further proof that public taste is, well, questionable at best).<br /><br />With his innate fashion radar, faultless taste level, brilliant color sense, and master’s eye, Yves elevated street wear to couture and perfected wardrobe basics like trench coats, pea jackets, trousers and sweaters, bow tie blouses, safari shirts, black turtlenecks, leopard prints. Sounds like your closet? It sure sounds like mine. Speaking of which, would somebody please ‘reinterpret’ that iconic lace-up safari shirt modeled by Betty Catroux? (Actually, didn’t Banana Republic come out with one several years ago? Maybe it’s time to do it again!) <br /><br />As if to perfectly illustrate the inherent modernity and ‘forever’ appeal of what Yves has proposed through the decades, all those attendees at the CFDA Awards who apparently changed their minds at the last moment and chose to pay homage to the designer by wearing vintage YSL or something in keeping with his fashion credo, not only looked better than anyone else but, looked better than ever. That includes Naomi Campbell in a vintage YSL long sleeved black sheer blouse and very au courant black pailleted ‘harem’ pants; Carolina Herrera in a white ‘le smoking’ of her own design; Ashley Olsen (who normally looks like a sad sack but looked terrific and pulled together in a Calvin Klein Collection black ‘le smoking’ worn with a white shirt); and, last but not least, CFDA president Diane von Furstenberg, who eschewed her signature busy prints in favor of a vintage black YSL tuxedo pantsuit. The androgyny of the pantsuit offset her curly mane perfectly and quite frankly, it’s the best I’ve seen her look in a long time. What a fitting tribute and testimony.<br /><br /> While the evening witnessed a true mixed bag in terms of fashion statements, one woman who was a disappointment to me was Anna Wintour. The editor-in-chief has her pick of anything and everything yet, I found her dress label unknown though I assume it’s by an American designer) to be rather boring and unexciting. Though she is always consistent, which is fine, I would love to see her break the mold just once and go against type. With her severe bob, she would have looked amazing clad in a fabulous tuxedo pantsuit with her nude nails painted red. Tres chic!<br /><br />Mark my words, Yves Saint Laurent and his legend will loom large over the spring 2009 collections shown in the fall and there will be renewed interest in chic tailleur and timeless classics. <br /><br />-Marilyn KirschnerErnesthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02772967757760907864noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3313864.post-45185331348913716932008-06-03T09:35:00.015-04:002008-06-03T15:13:49.409-04:00<strong><span style="font-size:180%;">CFDA 2008 Fashion Awards</span></strong><br /><br />Photos from the Red Carpet by Randy Brooke.<br /><br /><img src="http://lookonline.com/blogfiles/cfda08-wintour.JPG" /><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">Anna Wintour<br /></span><br />This year the Council of Fashion Designers of America awards was sponsored by Swarovski. Monday was sunny and balmy but crystals and purple rained on the red carpet that evening. One of the first to arrive was Miss Swarovski in an all black cocktail dress and her signature crystals worn as accessories. Many of the guests honored the official sponsor of this year's event by wearing the famous crystals as well.<br /><br /><img src="http://lookonline.com/blogfiles/cfda08-jacobs.JPG" /><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">Marc Jacobs &amp; Victoria Beckham</span><br /><br />Victoria Beckham was wearing a Marc Jacobs (very) short dress made of a myriad of black applique organdi hearts. Carolina Herrera was in an all white tuxedo suit, while Lauren Hutton wore an all grey jumpsuit and cover-up. Eva Longoria-Parker sported a cocktail dress of a pale raspberry fabric adorned with off-white beads at the bustier line. Eva Mendes was elegant in her long and sleek white gown by Francesco Costa.<br /><br /><img src="http://lookonline.com/blogfiles/cfda08-lauren.JPG" /><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">Ralph Lauren &amp; Wife<br /></span><br />Mrs. Ralph Lauren wore a graceful long and pale blue dress adorned with delicate flowers. Maggie Gyllenwaal was in a green-and-black checkerboard tunic by Proenza Schouler. Emcee of the evening Fran Lebowitz wore an all-white tuxedo from "her favorite London tailors". As for CFDA president Diane von Furstenberg, she wore a vintage Yves Saint Laurent black tuxedo, paying a vibrant homage to the designer who just passed away. Anna Wintour was in a short gold lame cocktail dress.<br /><br /><img src="http://lookonline.com/blogfiles/cfda08-hutton.JPG" /><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">Stan Herman &amp; Lauren Hutton</span><br /><br />And speaking of the men, Isaac Mizrahi wore a black tuxedo, waxed hair and shiny black sandals that showed his painted toenails while Tom Ford, elegant as usual, wore a black tuxedo and white shirt. And Stan Herman just looked great -- also as usual.<br /><br /><img src="http://lookonline.com/blogfiles/cfda-alt.JPG" /><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">Carol Alt<br /></span><br />The M.O. of the night had to be "purple". Seen wearing the color were Erin Lauder in a flowing short purple dress, Carol Alt in a long purple gown with a side slit, Amy Poehler (Saturday Night Live) in a purple dress with flowers cascading down . Lil' Kim wore a short purple dress cinched at the waist while Behnaz Sarapfour wore a stunning purple dress. Hillary Duff wore a sequined purple dress by Michael Kors, Tory Burch sported a long purple dress of her own design, Diana Taylor in a Ralph Lauren design. It was a purple rain, no less. The color was almost everywhere, either as the main color of the outfit or as an accessory.<br /><br /><img src="http://lookonline.com/blogfiles/cfda08-duff.jpg" /><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">Hillary Duff<br /></span><br /><br />In this writer's opinion, the most outstanding dress had to be the one worn by Hillary Duff. Michael Kors' design was simple, yet highly effective. The combination of the fabric and the clinging lines made for a beautiful, elegant and very sexy dress that Ms Duff wore very well.<br /><br />Unfortunately, the worst part of the evening was the relatively small space allocated to the working press and the lack of help or directions when I first checked in. I struggled just to keep my "PRESS" sticker from falling off me. <br /><br /><img src="http://lookonline.com/blogfiles/cfda08-mayor.JPG" /><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">Mayor Michael Bloomberg & Diana Taylor</span><br /><br />So if you have not heard already, the winners of this year's CFDA awards are : Francesco Costa (womenswear designer for the second time, quite an achievement),Tom Ford (for menswear) Tory Burch (for accessories). As for Carolina Herrera, she accepted an award for her lifetime contribution to the industry. Candy Pratts Price received this year's Eugenia Sheppard Award. The International Award went to Dries Van Noten, and Mayor Michael Bloomberg was given the CFDA's Board of Directors' Special Tribute. The Swarovski awards for emerging talent went to Kate and Laura Mulleavy for Rodarte for Womenswear, Scott Sternberg for Band of Outsiders for Menswear and Philip Crangi for Accessory Design.<br /><br />- Muriel Geny-TriffautErnesthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02772967757760907864noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3313864.post-60696941025251726972008-05-28T07:44:00.017-04:002008-05-30T07:54:26.670-04:00<strong><span style="font-size:180%;"></span></strong><br /><span style="font-size:130%;"><strong><span style="font-size:180%;">"Arbiters of Style"</span></strong></span><br /><br /><img src="http://lookonline.com/blogfiles/fitexhibit-top2.jpg" /><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">From Left: Garbrielle 'Coco' Chanel, Mme Gres &amp; Diane von Furstenberg<br />(All Photos: Randy Brooke)</span><br /><br />Ah….style! It’s something that (in certain circles) is highly sought after, elusive, undeniably hard to define and harder still to possess. To many an ‘expert’s’ way of thinking, it’s something you either have, or you don’t. Style is a favored, almost magical word within the fashion world, where it’s often bantered around, used and abused. To wit, there is a fashion magazine named ‘InStyle’, there’s a highly influential website, Style.com, The New York Times has not one but two ‘Style’ sections (one on Thursday and the other on Sunday), and the word ‘style’ is routinely used in fashion advertisements and in fashion magazines, where it’s emblazoned on covers and used within editorial pages.<br /><br />In fact, “The Secrets of Style” screams out in large royal blue letters on Harper’s Bazaar’s June cover (which features Nicole Ritchie as its ‘stylish’ cover girl) and in the last paragraph of her Editor’s Letter this month, Glenda Bailey observes that “true style is never about the pieces you buy each season: it’s about the pieces you wear every season.” Certainly, if you use this definition as the barometer of what constitutes true style, and see it as the necessary ingredient for being a ‘style arbiter’ (which the Museum at FIT defines as a “tastemaker, whether publicly anointed or self proclaimed, who has the authority to judge and dictate what is fashionable”), there is almost no woman who so epitomizes the idea of a style arbiter as the late rule breaking Diana Vreeland.<br /><br />So it shouldn’t be surprising that two of Diana Vreeland’s outfits greet you as you enter the Museum of FIT’s galleries, which house their brand new exhibit, “Arbiters of Style: Women at the Forefront of Fashion” (For the record, one is a printed and heavily bejeweled Oscar de la Renta caftan and the other, an acid green Mila Schon skirt suit both of which were gifts to the Museum at FIT from DV and illustrate two distinctly different sides of the style icon).<br /><br /><img src="http://lookonline.com/blogfiles/fitexhibit-pradapajamas.jpg" /><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">Miuccia Prada's ‘Fairy’ printed silk pajamas<br /></span><br />The exhibit’s organizers, Molly Sorkin and Colleen Hill, along with Fred Dennis, Clare Sauro, Harumi Hotta, Lyn Weidner and Chief Curator, Dr. Valerie Steele were on hand for last Wednesday’s morning press preview. Ms. Sorkin and Ms. Hill admitted that when they began assembling the exhibit, they were struck by the way in which everything was “interconnected” (meaning, women designers wore other women designers’ designs, they were inspired by their clients, etc.) and the effects of globalization. They felt strongly about starting off with Diana Vreeland because she was such an “influential woman in fashion” and similarly, they hailed Miuccia Prada as the “quintessential woman designer of today” which is presumably why they ended with Miuccia’s signature ‘Fairy’ printed silk pajamas from spring 2008.<br /><br /><img src="http://lookonline.com/blogfiles/fitexhibit-courreges-bohan.jpg" /><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">Designs by Andre Courreges &amp; Marc Bohen for Christian Dior<br /></span><br />The exhibit, comprised of approximately 70 looks (clothing and accessories) dating from the 18th century up to the present (there are several outfits from fall 2008) has the distinction of being the first chronological survey focusing on female designers (Coco Chanel, Donna Karan, Vivienne Westwood, fashionable socialites (Isabel Eberstadt, Jane Holzer, models (Marina Schiano, Penelope Tree), fashion journalists and photographers (Diana Vreeland, Despina Messinesi, Louise Dahl- Wolfe), 20th century female executives (Rose Marie Bravo), and clientele who have “shaped fashion’s course for more than 250 years”. The works of only a handful of male designers (Givenchy, Oscar de la Renta, Halston, Yves St. Laurent, Courreges, Geoffrey Beene, Emilio Pucci) were included only as a way to view their “important clients and muses”. And so, as you walk through the rooms, you will see a Halston jumpsuit ‘worn’ by Lauren Bacall, a dramatic black Givenchy gown with a ‘frontless’ coat and Courreges skirt suit (from his first collection) ‘worn’ by Isabel Eberstadt, an Yves St. Laurent Rive Gauche ‘power suit’ ‘worn’ by Rose Marie Bravo, a Christian Dior dress and an Emilio Pucci ensemble ‘worn’ by Jane Holzer, etc.).<br /><br /><img src="http://lookonline.com/blogfiles/fitexhibit-devon-demeulemeester.jpg" /><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">Collections of Lyn Devon &amp; Ann Demeulemeester<br /></span><br />The designs were selected by virtue of their importance, interest, and “significance” and include an interesting mix of names from up and coming talent (like Lyn Devon and the designing duo behind the label Rodarte), avante-garde legends (Ann Demeulemeester, Rei Kawakubo, Vivienne Westwood), American ‘royalty’ both past and present (Claire McCardell, Bonnie Cashin, Donna Karan, Carolyne Roehm, Diane Von Furstenberg, Carolina Herrera, Vera Wang), and of course, some of the most hallowed labels in fashion history (exemplified by Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel, Mme. Gres, Elsa Schiaparelli). The one thing that struck me as I walked through the exhibit, was the timelessness and modernity of great design. Donna Karan’s draped black jersey dress from 1987 could have easily stepped off this season’s runway, and the same can be said of dozens of other items on view, including the Chanel suit and Madame Gres evening ensemble, which made their ‘debuts’ many decades before the Diane Von Furstenberg gown from fall 2008 that they were standing beside. Great design does not have an expiration date. Much like great style.<br /><br />The exhibition runs through November 8th.<br /><br />Arbiters of Style: Women at the Forefront of Fashion<br /><span style="font-size:85%;">The Museum at FIT is located on the southwest corner of Seventh Avenue at 27th Street. Exhibition hours are Tuesday through Friday, noon to 8 p.m.; Saturday, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.; closed Sundays, Mondays and legal holidays. Admission is free. For museum information call (212) 217-4558 or go to www.fitnyc.edu/museum. For further press information, contact the Office of Communications and External Relations at (212) 217-4700 or press@fitnyc.edu. Visuals are available upon request via mail or e-mail.<br /></span><br /><br />-Marilyn KirschnerErnesthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02772967757760907864noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3313864.post-37952800388082282622008-05-27T08:32:00.003-04:002008-05-28T11:30:41.091-04:00<a href="http://www.coutorture.com/1663682" target="_blank"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2333/2366505283_5eaffbd30e.jpg?v=0" alt="" width="150" height="58" /></a><br /><br /><span style="font-size:180%;"><strong>Better Bets #2 </strong><br /></span><span style="font-size:130%;">Discovering the Best in New York</span><br /><br /><img src="http://lookonline.com/blogfiles/betterbets-mambobag.jpg" /><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">Mambo Bag by Tagua</span><br /><br />Ronda Erb's new bi-weekly column on discovering the new and interesting in New York retail, beauty, fashion, accessories and events. <a href="http://lookonline.com/betterbets-new2.html"><strong>Click here to read here column.</strong></a>Ernesthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02772967757760907864noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3313864.post-44374872779603379912008-05-24T07:22:00.011-04:002008-05-24T09:23:55.624-04:00<strong><span style="font-size:180%;">Rootstein Mannequins Party</span></strong><br /><br /><img src="http://lookonline.com/blogfiles/root-1.JPG" /> <br /><br />Last Thursday night marked another high moment in the New York fashion scene: the unveiling and exhibit of the world famous British mannequin company Rootstein Mannequins in New York City. This time around, Rootstein has selected British cover girl Agyness Deyn to be the featured model. She follows in a line of famous cover girls used by Rootstein going all the way back to Twiggy.<br /><br /><img src="http://lookonline.com/blogfiles/root-4.JPG"/><br /><br />According to Rootstein Creative Director Kevin Arpino, the choice of Agyness Deyn made perfect sense: “Rootstein has had a long history of predicting the decades most influential visages and we felt that Agyness embodies the look of the first decade of this century. Her style and mannerisms both on and off the runway, as well as her fabulous physique, made her the perfect choice to be immortalized as a mannequin.<br /><br /><img src="http://lookonline.com/blogfiles/root-5.JPG"/> <br /><br />The showroom was clad with replicas of Agyness Deyn sporting outfits that highlighted the actual trends in fashion: Doc Martins candy colored shoes were used and it resulted in an odd but fascinating look. Nothing like a pair of pink Doc Martens shoes combined with a neon colored feathered vest and metallic looking pink pants to rethink many notions about fashion style rules. Along with brightly colored outfits, black ones were also prevalent, as was lace, decidedly the most important new trend of the upcoming season.<br /><br /><img src="http://lookonline.com/blogfiles/root-3.JPG"/> <br /><br /> Platforms were set to display some of the mannequins that, at times, seemed to have a life of their own. They were displayed high and low, some on pedestals, others in neon framed open boxes that matched the color of their outfits. Some of them were dressed in all over black and were either seated or standing, resulting in a strange and beautiful display. Most of the standing mannequins held a neon colored tube or some sort of spear. It made for a very alluring atmosphere, something that was at the same time dark and bright. <br /><br /> <img src="http://lookonline.com/blogfiles/root-6.JPG"/> <br /><br />MAO Public Relations produced this very well-attended opening party in Chelsea that saw many coming to admire the display of elaborately dressed mannequins set against a very dark and black background (estimated crowd of about 500). Guests were invited to wear plastic rings that flashed intermittent colored lights at the press of a button. With all these rings flashing, it brought a novel twist that helped set a fun and whimsical tone to an already different-from-the-usual party.<br /><br /> Seen at the party were fashion designers John Bartlett, Stephen Burrows, and Bill Dugan (who worked many years with Halston). Of course the downtown divas from Paper Magazine were also there, as well as a reporter from The New Yorker. Diversity and creativity was the modus operandi of the night with this crowd. Overall, the beautiful, interesting and creatively dressed people that were present were as much a part of the decor as the displayed mannequins.<br /><br />-Muriel Genny-TriffautErnesthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02772967757760907864noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3313864.post-82901242626616948602008-05-23T08:45:00.010-04:002008-05-23T10:42:32.916-04:00<strong><span style="font-size:180%;">The Makeup Show NYC</span></strong><br /><br /><img src="http://lookonline.com/blogfiles/makeupshow-3.jpg" /><br /><br />The Makeup Show 2008 held in New York City on May 18 and 19 was a perfect occasion to check out trends as well as new concepts and innovative products. The high number of companies present was impressive as was the quality of products offered.<br /><br />The showroom was filled with many well known brands adorning the floor and newcomers eager to make a difference in a highly competitive market. The booklet available at the entrance listed no less than 71 brands having stands or booths. It also offered high quality workshops and seminars equally interesting to the professional as well as the clients eager to know more about tips and methods to achieve a well sought result: unblemished beauty.<br /><br />Keynote and business forums were plentiful, with, for instance, Sandy Linter presenting on behalf of Lancome "A Career in MakeUp" (Sunday May 18). Hands-on workshops were also offered each day. Dominic Cruz for Kryolan conducted on Monday a workshop related to "Makeup for the Mature Skin". Renowned makeup star Linda Mason offered valuable tips and techniques to achieve her famous "eye candy" look.<br /><br />One of the more interesting workshops was the one conducted by Sarah Lucero for Stila Cosmetics that covered what the trend in makeup is all about for the fall of 2008. Ms Lucero said that lipstick is finally back in rich luscious colors such as coral and deep hued pink with a neon twist, a memento of the eighties. As to gloss lipstick, it is bound to take a back seat for the upcoming season. Skin should look natural (hurray!!) and blushes play a major part with highly pigmented colors such as cherry. As for the eyes, it is all about matte, shine, glitter and sparkles are left in the past.<br /><br />Between the brands present and the workshops and seminars, it was a whirlwind of makeup everywhere and accessories such as professional makeup cases, brushes, even wigs that allowed just about everyone, professionals and shoppers to find something worth having and/or knowing about. The big players were there as well, with brands like Mac, Cover Girl, Stila Cosmetics and Lancome showing appealing stands displaying well known and favorite products. Makeovers were offered here and there, making the whole thing a very enjoyable experience.<br /><br /><img src="http://lookonline.com/blogfiles/makeupshow-4.jpg"/><br /><br />A number of booths were offering airbrushed makeup products and the necessary machinery to achieve what is often touted as an impeccable result. Companies like Graftobian Make Up Co. showed an impressive and complete array of products geared at just about everyone. From enabling one to create a unique design (as illustrated by a model standing at the booth with only airbrush make up covering her body with beautiful swirls of colors) to achieving outstanding results for every day makeup.<br /><br />Although the appeal for most is obvious, the covering of just about every inch of the face with airbrushed makeup products raises a question: what is next? Isn't it already enough that many of us are willing to use cosmetic surgery and other methods to look young; do we want now to look like the wax models of Mme Tussaud's museum? The popularity this technique has gained in a short time illustrates how obsessed our culture has become with the impossible concept of everlasting beauty.<br /><br />Although airbrush techniques can create a vision of flawless beauty, the charm and free spirited abandon that can be expressed through minimal makeup is completely lost with the use of such techniques. The airbrushed face seems somewhat stiff and overly covered with what could be coined as being some type of "camouflage".<br /><br />Closer to traditional makeup, brands like adesign stood out with beautiful makeup brushes of the highest quality. Offered in many different sizes and shapes, they each have specific uses. The famous Kabuki brushes were omnipresent and showed all the signs of high-end products.<br /><br />Artist (oil painting on glass), makeup artist and hair stylist Hagen Linss was offering her services to retouch photographs. And array of "before and after" photos was displayed on the wall. Miss Hagen Linss is a very charming and worldly person that displays great artistic skills in many different ways.<br /><br />Another interesting find was Nurturing Force, a New Jersey based company that offers high quality blotting papers for the skin, among other things. Unlike many other competitors that come with inferior products that can leave an undesirable film on the skin among side effects, Nurturing Force's products are touted (by the company itself) as being the best in that segment of the market: it won't remove or smudge makeup while it absorbs shine with an instantaneous result: a dry and shine free skin.<br /><br />The company has many professionals using its products, a sure sign of quality in itself. The company's vice president, Ms Linda R. Rothstein-Sosnick took time to explain to me all the qualities the paper has. I personally favor their lavender scented paper: made with the science of aromatherapy, it exudes a delicate and very pleasing fragrance in a dispenser that is most innovative. Instead of paper leaves in an envelope, Nurturing Force has come up with a most ingenious container that holds a roll of paper -- one can simply roll out and cut as much paper as it needed each and every time.<br /><br />The best of it all had to be a newcomer on the market and a very successful one in just a year: ColorOn Professional is an amazing product: packs of the product contain 10 leaves of papers that have makeup pressed up, each box being of a specific color as well as a specific shape. One has to apply the paper with the makeup color on each eyelid and simply pull out the paper gently. The color stays on the eyelid, a perfectly done eye makeup in no time. Color on is unique and a great product that is so easy to use, with great and long lasting results. The Florida based company is World Cosmetics, and its charismatic CEO, Edward Eberts, was there to promote this outstanding product.<br /><br />- Muriel Geny-TriffautErnesthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02772967757760907864noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3313864.post-64122156467274166052008-05-20T15:01:00.004-04:002008-05-20T16:55:15.623-04:00<strong><span style="font-size:180%;">Amazing ‘Lace’, Part 2</span></strong><br /><br /><img src="http://lookonline.com/blogfiles/nm-goldbagandshoe.jpg" /><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">Gold Lace Bag by Prada</span><br /><br />If you remember, last week I predicted (or rather stated the obvious) that lace would indeed be ‘huge’ going forward, thanks in large part to Miuccia Prada’s admitted obsession with the age old fabric, which she used for fall 2008 in gutsy, unexpected ways, playing against its normally prissy, dainty, old fashioned associations. I also noted that lace was very much apart of two events I covered last Wednesday (one being Oscar de la Renta’s resort 2008 show).<br /><br /><img src="http://lookonline.com/blogfiles/nm-laceshoes.jpg" /><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">Black lace shoe bootie front tie from Manolo Blahnik</span><br /><br />Indeed, lace (lace hosiery, lace bags, and lace shoes) is on Neiman Marcus’s hit list for this coming fall and as such, figured prominently within last week’s Neiman Marcus Preview of the Best of Fall 2008 Fashion Accessories hosted by Gabrielle de Papp, Vice President Public Relations and Sandra Wilson, accessories Fashion Director 2008.<br /><br /><img src="http://lookonline.com/blogfiles/nm-lacebags.jpg" /><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">Valentino lace bow bag</span><br /><br /> The duplex suite at the Chambers Hotel, which served once again as the venue of choice, was filled with the best of the best shoes, boots, bags, bracelets, necklaces, rings, earrings, and fur pieces from high end sought after labels such as Chanel, Valentino, Prada, Tory Burch, Gucci, Chloe, Vera Wang, Judith Leiber, Larisa Barerra, Jose Barerra, Jimmy Choo, YSL, Badgley Mischka, Manolo Blahnik, Givenchy, Adrienne Landau, Pologeorgis, 6267, Zanotti, Loeffler Randall, Christian Louboutin, David Yurman, Matthew Laurenza, Jude Frances, John Hardy, Ippolita, Emily Armenta (the last six of which have designed exclusive products for Neiman Marcus). <br /><br /><img src="http://lookonline.com/blogfiles/nm-2.jpg" /><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">Necklace by Barerra</span><br /><br />As Ms. Wilson explains it, the most important elements that define the coming season are: color, sophistication, feminine glamour, modern evening glamour. “You will want to feel glamorous, you will want to be sophisticated, and you will want color” she predicted. To set the stage and to set the mood, a video of “Breakfast at Tiffany” (with Audrey Hepburn in all her chic, bedecked and bejeweled glory) was playing on a screen downstairs and “To Catch a Thief” (starring the always elegant Cary Grant) was playing upstairs.<br /><br />What does Sandra feel strongly about for fall?<br /><br /><strong>All shades of deep reds</strong> (wines and berries)<br /><br /><strong>Patent leather</strong> (especially “car paint patent”)<br /><br /><strong>Metallics </strong>(gold never dies but newer still is copper and bronze);<br /><br /><strong>Surface interest details on leather</strong><br /><br /><img src="http://lookonline.com/blogfiles/nm-4.jpg" /><br /><strong>‘Killer’ stiletto heels, open toes, open back, high vamps, platforms </strong>(Notwithstanding the fact that Ms. Hepburn was synonymous with ballet flats and elegant low heeled pumps, Ms. Wilson declared the ‘fierce’ stiletto heeled, open toed, open back, open sided shoe boot as the “shoe of the season”)<br /><br /><strong>Medium sized day bags</strong> (forget lugging around back breaking oversized totes)<br /><br /><strong>Evening bags in unique shapes</strong><br /><br /><strong>Art deco, vintage inspired paste jewelry</strong> (particularly large oversized costume jewelry in crystal)<br /><br /><strong>Pearls</strong> (especially gumball sized pearls)<br /><br /><strong>Lace</strong> (used in unexpected ways as illustrated by the black lace Manolo Blahnik stiletto shoe booties, Miuccia Prada’s gold lace handbag, Valentino’s bow and double handle lace bags.<br /><br />-Marilyn KirschnerErnesthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02772967757760907864noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3313864.post-88590231612121801572008-05-20T10:34:00.003-04:002008-05-21T07:52:09.719-04:00<strong><span style="font-size:180%;">Gen-Art Styles 2008</span></strong><br /><br /><img src="http://lookonline.com/blogfiles/genarts-screen.jpg" /><br />(<span style="font-size:85%;">Photo: Isabelle Erb)</span><br /><br />On Monday night, Gen-Art Styles 2008 was held at the Hammerstein Ballroom in mid-town Manhattan. It was the 10th Annual Design Awards and Runway Show presented by the renowned arts and entertainment organization. The capacity crowd was comprised of members of the fashion press, invited guests, and ticket-buying spectators.<br /><br />For the second year in a row, Robert Verdi served as the host of the evening. Verdi explained that he had been called in with only a few days notice, when someone else backed out at the last moment. He jokingly referred to himself as “everybody’s first, second choice”. Verdi went on to entertain the audience throughout the evening with his witty, and frequently off-color remarks. No one was spared as he poked fun at himself : “Botox, gas up those needles and come jack up my face” ;the audience: “fashion fags and sassy socialites” ; and celebrities such as Isaac Mizrahi and Nicole Kidman.<br /><br />30 finalists competed in 6 categories: Ready-to wear, Menswear,Accessories, Avant Garde, Eveningwear, and the Fashion Vision Award for Design. Winners were determined by a distinguished panel of judges, including: Mark Ecko, Carlos Falchi, Michael Fink, Douglas Hannant, Barbara Kramer, Rebecca Weinberg, and Elettra Rossellini Wiedemann. Each finalist presented two looks from their collection during the runway show. The winner in each category was presented with a trophy (a pair of silver scissors mounted on a black cube) by Kara Saun, the first runner up of Project Runway’s season one. Sophia Bush served as a special guest presenter of the Fashion Vision Award. A total of $35,000 was awarded during the event.<br /><br />The evening’s winners were:<br /><br />Ready-to wear: Yujin Song, London<br /><br />Menswear: Timothy Franklin, London<br /><br />Accessories: NINAKI, Los Angeles<br /><br />Avant Garde: Marie Potesta, San Francisco.<br /><br />Fashion Vision Award for Design: Jolibe, New York<br /><br />Eveningwear: Louisa Parriss, San Francisco.<br /><br />When all the awards had been handed out, it was time to celebrate. Mr. Verdi closed the evening, reminding everyone that there would be an open bar at the after party, which was held in the ballroom. Within minutes the chairs were cleared away and guests began to mingle, each one was carrying a goody bag filled with gifts from Tone, Ecru, Sonu, and other sponsors, and a Botox bubble umbrella.<br /><br />-Rhonda ErbErnesthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02772967757760907864noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3313864.post-87312647125917512712008-05-19T11:21:00.003-04:002008-05-20T10:52:40.815-04:00<strong><span style="font-size:180%;">F.I.T. Museum Opening Exhibition - Arbiters of Style: Women at the Forefront of Fashion</span></strong><br /><strong>May 21 to November 8, 2008<br /></strong><br />Press Preview May 21th 10AM- 12Noon<br /><br />Arbiters of Style: Women at the Forefront of Fashion celebrates an array of female creators, promoters and clientele who have shaped the course of fashion. This fashion exhibition features work by female designers as well as clothing and accessories worn by female department store executives, influential clients, magazine editors, muses and models. Women have played a significant role in the history of fashion and they continue to be a driving force as tastemakers and industry leaders.<br /><br />Featuring over seventy looks from the Museum’s permanent collection, Arbiters of Style includes designs by Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel, Sonia Delaunay, Jeanne Lanvin, and Claire McCardell and features clothing worn by influential women such as Vogue editor Diana Vreeland, photographer Louise Dahl Wolf, and actresses Lauren Bacall and Rosalind Russell. The historical importance of these women and many others will be revealed in the display of garments from the eighteenth century to the present.<br /><br />Arbiters of Style: Women at the Forefront of Fashion is organized by Molly Sorkin and Colleen Hill, along with Fred Dennis, Clare Sauro, Harumi Hotta and Lynn Weidner.<br /><br />The exhibition begins with objects that illustrate how women were active as designers, stylists and promoters of fashionable trends as early as the eighteenth century. Included will be a gown circa 1770, made from a sumptuous Spitalfields textile designed by Anna Maria Garthwaite. Historic trendsetters such as Empresses Josephine and Eugénie will be represented by dresses that reflect their influence on the fashions worn by women in Europe and America.A gown designed by leading Parisian couturiere Jeanne Paquin and donated by Mrs. William Rockefeller exemplifies the increasing influence of female designers in the early twentieth century.<br /><br />The exhibition also will feature a suit by the English couturiere Lucy, Lady Duff Gordon, known professionally as Lucile, and will introduce the Oregon-based dressmakers May and Ann Shogren, who brought elements of Paris couture to their American clientele.Female designers, such as Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel, Jeanne Lanvin and Elsa Schiaparelli, dominated fashion between the two world wars. A Chanel suit worn by legendary fashion photographer Louise Dahl-Wolfe will be shown alongside several of her original photographs from the Museum’s collection.<br /><br />Dresses from museum donor and Vogue editor Despina Messinesi exemplify the role of the industry woman as an international style setter.By the mid-twentieth century, female American designers and department store executives played increasingly prominent roles in the fashion industry. Designer Claire McCardell, retail pioneer Hattie Carnegie, and fashion executive Rose Marie Bravo will be featured, as will a dress by Irene of Bullocks Wilshire, a designer favored by the Hollywood elite.<br /><br />Donations from Diana Vreeland, Isabel Eberstadt, and Lauren Bacall highlight their roles as fashion leaders, while designs by trendsetters such as Vivienne Westwood and Rei Kawakubo emphasize the continued importance of female designers.<br /><br />The Museum at FIT is located on the southwest corner of Seventh Avenue at 27th Street. Exhibition hours are Tuesday through Friday, noon to 8 p.m.; Saturday, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.; closed Sundays, Mondays and legal holidays. Admission is free. For museum information call (212) 217-4558 or go to www.fitnyc.edu/museum. For further press information, contact the Office of Communications and External Relations at (212) 217-4700 or press@fitnyc.edu. Visuals are available upon request via mail or e-mail.Ernesthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02772967757760907864noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3313864.post-83944116272753239772008-05-16T07:03:00.009-04:002008-05-16T11:33:20.969-04:00<strong><span style="font-size:180%;">FIT On the Catwalk 2008</span></strong><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">(All photos by John Pringle </span><a href="http://www.jpringlephoto.com/"><span style="font-size:85%;">http://www.jpringlephoto.com/</span></a><span style="font-size:85%;"> )</span><br /><br />"Fit On the Catwalk", which regroups the creations of the senior students of the Fashion Institute of Technology, was a presentation of different and varied talents with one thing in common: the school that taught them.<br /><br />Starting with an opening party laced with chocolate, the runway show was preceded with a speech by Colette Wong, Chairperson, followed by Dr. Joyce F. Brown, President of the FIT. After having been reminded of the excellence in education provided by the school, the runway show finally started.<br /><br /><br /><img src="http://lookonline.com/blogfiles/fit-cotton-breitenbach.jpg" /><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">Danielle Breitenbach's winning brown velveteen coat &amp; dress</span><br /><br />It was an incredible flourish of flair and genius all together. First were shown the Sporstwear collection created by 26 designers, then followed the Knitwear collection, Childrenwear (13 designers), Special Occasion (26 designers) and Intimate Apparel.<br /><br /><img src="http://lookonline.com/blogfiles/fit-cotton-oder.jpg" /><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">Ruveyde Oder's winning expresso aviator pant with matching bustier &amp; jacket</span><br /><br />From a beautiful cream colored perforated leather dress with a textured cream colored coat, to a "in-your-face-and-it's-beautiful" design of a magenta trapeze motorcycle jacket with color blocked tunic dress and skinny jeans, the sportswear collection deserved the long applause it received from guests.<br /><br />The two industry critics were Anna Sui and Dennis Basso. They selected as winners Ruveyde Oder won with an amazing Expresso aviator pant with matching bustier and jacket, the result of an elaborate work on leather and the body movements. It was my favorite as well.<br /><br />Kelsy Zimba is the other industry winner with a fur coat with rope detailing, texture black leather skirt and black crepe pleated blouse<br /><br />The Knitwear collection regrouped 25 designers whose creations are a magnificent combination of beauty, practicality and finely thought out detailing. All the fabrics for the knitwear designs were hand or machine knit by the students. A wine merino hand knit coat with haze trim was simply smashing. A brown ombre knit dress with fringe and back detail was amazing.<br /><br />The result was a succession of beautiful and elegant designs. They each had fine details, some of them unexpected, very often details not seen elsewhere before.<br /><br /><img src="http://lookonline.com/blogfiles/fit-knitwear-kambe.jpg" /><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">Risa Kambe's winning sweater &amp; cashmere flared dress<br /></span><br />The two industry critics in this category were Michelle Antonelli and Jerry Dellova. They chose Risa Kambe was selected as one of the two winners by the industry critics and by The Cotton Student Sponsorship Program Winner with a multi grey cotton and alpaca oversized sweater with grey cashmere flared dress, a beautiful construction in itself.<br /><br /><img src="http://lookonline.com/blogfiles/fit-knightwear-lee.jpg" /><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">Yoojin Lee winning black montana bubble dress<br /></span><br />Yoojin Lee won as well with a splendid merino weave detail black montana bubble dress with jersey turtleneck and leg warmers. The punch of bold colors had to make this design a winner.<br /><br /><img src="http://lookonline.com/blogfiles/fit-childrenwear-nicholas.jpg" /><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">Annie Nicholas winning plaid skirt with cropped plum jacket<br /></span><br />The Childrenswear collection received a welcome applause with the angel-like faces of beautiful little girls who were dressed with trendy, edgy, colorful, - even sumptuous - designs. The collection a well deserved resounding success with its audience. From delicate, flowered and pleated dresses to sharp pants and jackets, nothing was not cute. The Industry Critic was Ms. Nancy Sommers and the winners are Annie Nicholas with a purple plaid skirt with red taffeta pleats and cropped plum jacket with red ruffle shell.<br /><br /><img src="http://lookonline.com/blogfiles/fit-childrenswear-boardman.jpg" /><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">Sarah Boardman's winning cape &amp; dress<br /></span><br />Sarah Boardman is The Cotton Student Sponsorship Program Winner with a red wool cape with mushroom dots, ruffled dress with multiple prints. That one outfit was absolutely adorable, everyone in the audience seemed to have loved it as much as i did.<br /><br /><br /><img src="http://lookonline.com/blogfiles/fit-special-kim.jpg" /><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">Misin Kim's winning white cotton gown covered with voile roses<br /></span><br />The Special Occasion collection was a whirlwind of lavish display of fabrics, veils and long trains that oozed glamour and opulence. Baby doll dress or pleated gown, the creations stood out with the same unique and brilliantly designed evening wear. Very well tailored dark satin tuxedo-like jacket and pants were a counterpoint to a gorgeous gunmetal crinkled organza corseted gown. As for the strapless white cotton gown covered with cotton voile roses, it is a magnificent gown. It also is the winner of The Cotton Student Sponsorship Program , designed by Misin Kim.<br /><br /><img src="http://lookonline.com/blogfiles/fit-special-rasinskaya.jpg" /><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">Anna Rasinskaya's winning strapless lame dress</span><br /><br />The industry critics were Arnold Scaasi and Angel Sanchez. As winners, they selected Annie Rasinskaya's design of a strapless lame dress with back peplum, cording detail and Swarosky crystals.<br /><br /><img src="http://lookonline.com/blogfiles/fit-special-le.jpg" /><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">Lisa Le's winning blanc chiffon swirl dress<br /></span><br />Lisa H. Le with a blanc chiffon swirl dress with hand painted ombre satin ruffles and Swarosky crystals is the other winner. That dress is simply amazing, intricate construction and right placement of the ruffles make for a magnificent gown. It got all my vote as well, what is not to like?<br /><br /><img src="http://lookonline.com/blogfiles/fit-intimate-wilbur.jpg" /><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">Kaitlin Wilbur's winning black corset &amp; long robe<br /></span><br />In Intimate Apparel, 15 designers came with luxurious outfits nonetheless. Sheer fabrics and intricate work made for a superb and sensuous parade of lingerie. An ecru embroidered corset with black Chantilly lace was as beautiful as was a lavender hand pleated corset.<br /><br />The industry critic was Tina Wilson and the winner she selected is Kaitlin Wilbur with a black corset with beaded cream heart embroidery, panty and matching long robe.<br /><br /><br /><img src="http://lookonline.com/blogfiles/fit-intimate-ostrosky.jpg" /><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">Jennifer Ostrosky's winning robe with lace bra &amp; high waisted panty<br /></span><br />The Cotton Student Sponsorship Program chose Jennifer Ostrosky with her design of a mauve crinkle chiffon robe with black Chantilly lace bra and high waisted panty. It is a very beautiful outfit most women would enjoy wearing, not to mention that the high waisted panty make it accessible to many, quite a difference from the thongs and other skimpy panties seen nowadays.<br /><br />It must have been very hard for the critics of each category to decide on a winner. For the most part every design was the result of talent, craftmanship and imagination. Some designs were better left forgotten in my opinion but then again, not everyone is a Ralph Rucci or Norma Kamali.<br /><br />The runway show was the result of talent and skill very well combined. Congratulations to the students and the school. Among these students are the next great fashion designers, ready to bloom and expand their creative flow. We can only wish them all the best in their emerging new life.<br /><br />-Muriel Geny-TriffautErnesthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02772967757760907864noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3313864.post-61398017413360687072008-05-15T10:11:00.006-04:002008-05-15T10:53:10.262-04:00<strong><span style="font-size:180%;">Amazing ‘Lace’</span></strong><br /><br /><img src="http://lookonline.com/blogfiles/oscarlacesheath.jpg" /><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">(Photos by Scott Gries)</span><br /><br />It was a no brainer, after Miuccia Prada unveiled her lace laden fall winter 2008 collection in Milan several months ago, that lace would quickly find its way back into fashion’s favor and have a rebirth, if you will. Not that lace was in danger of disappearing, mind you, but let’s face it, when arguably one of the most influential designers in the world breaths new life into what is normally a demure fabric, dusts off the cobwebs that are normally associated with it, and basically builds an entire collection around it, it’s obvious that lace would find itself the center of attention. And as it turns out, lace (in a variety of incarnations) figured prominently in two events I covered on Wednesday.<br /><br /><img src="http://lookonline.com/blogfiles/oscar-lacetrim.jpg" /><br /><br />Oscar de la Renta staged his 66 piece resort 2008 show, at what has become his new favorite spot, 583 Park Avenue. Looking relaxed and tan, he could be seen meeting, greeting, and mingling beforehand with a crowd that included editors (seemingly all of Vogue was there and Anna Wintour looked uncharacteristically sporty in a crisp white shirt, printed skirt - by Oscar I presume - and high heeled sandals), retailers, and social fixtures (though I have to report that the second row in one section had to be filled in at the last moment since apparently, a handful of guests did not show up).<br /><br /><img src="http://lookonline.com/blogfiles/oscar-lacetop.jpg" /><br /><br />The upbeat collection was pretty, it was ‘ladylike’, it was colorful, and it was filled with all the dashing designer’s signatures and favorites...,in other words, it was ‘very Oscar’. Among the recurring themes were matched and mismatched suits (many in silk shantung, wool and silk, cotton and silk); a myriad of blouses (some had attached scarves, some were sleeveless, others boasted interesting sleeves); the use of islandly shades of Caribbean blue, coral, emerald green along with more neutral ochre, eggshell, black, and white; prints (there was a phoenix print, a tweed print, woodblock prints, ikats, florals, abstract brushstrokes); wide legged pants; caftans; jewel like embroidery on dresses and sweaters; hand crochet knits; one shouldered cocktail dresses (little black dresses and printed dresses); the use of highly textured 3-d organza ribbon and pleated organza.<br /><br /><img src="http://lookonline.com/blogfiles/oscar-lacetangerine.jpg" /><br /><br />And there was lace: guipure lace, Chantilly lace, colored lace, lace overlay, and embroidered lace. (Of course, don’t forget that images of Oscar de la Renta’s ivory lace wedding dress, worn by Jenna Bush for her nuptials last weekend, were seen the world over). Standouts in the collection include a short white guipure lace empire dress; a white silk taffeta blouse with black Chantilly lace trim worn with a knee length Caribbean guipure lace peplum skirt; a short black guipure lace dress with a silk woodblock print embroidered skirt; an entrance making full skirted black silk organza and tulle gown with guipure lace bodice.<br /><br />-Marilyn KirschnerErnesthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02772967757760907864noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3313864.post-15266810930513333722008-05-12T17:59:00.013-04:002008-05-16T07:38:16.188-04:00<strong><span style="font-size:180%;">‘Fur’ Sure</span></strong><br /><br /><img src="http://lookonline.com/blogfiles/furs-benztop.jpg" /><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">Design by Chris Benz</span><br /><br />To say that Fur Fashion Week ‘aint’ what it used to be is an understatement. But then again, what is? Having covered the fur market for Harper’s Bazaar decades ago, I can remember jam packed fur weeks that easily spanned one week, were comprised of ambitious runway shows (many of which took place in elegant hotel ballrooms), and were attended by editors-in-chief like Anna Wintour. That was then and this is now. But still, notwithstanding Global Warming and the downward turn of the economy, furs are still going strong: the customer (men and women alike) continues to embrace fur and recent runways (for fall winter 2008) which were filled with innovative and creative ways to use fur, were a testament to the designers’ continued interest and their ongoing desire to view pelts as, well, just ‘another’ fabric.<br /><br />This year, fur fashion week, organized by FICA (Fur Information Council of America, www.fur.org) will take place over the next two days, May 13 – 14, during which time there will be 17 presentations, including those by Michael Kors, Bill Blass, Ralph Rucci, Isaac Mizrahi, Peter Som, Zandra Rhodes, Zac Posen, Angel Sanchez, Carmen Mark Valvo, Kati Stern for Venexiana. (Other fur houses to show: Cassin, Orlando New York, Saga Furs, Helen Yarmak, Byte).<br /><br />To kick things off and to name the winners of the first annual Emerging Fur Designer of The Year Award, I, along with other members of the press, designers, and manufacturers, were invited to a lovely champagne luncheon at Sapa, 43 West 24th Street. (Speaking of Global Warming, it was so cool and damp on this late spring day, that the idea of looking at furs, or even wearing one, did not seem so far fetched. And in fact, one of my colleagues wore a short vintage astrakan coat with a fur collar to this luncheon and just recently, I’ve spotted many of this city’s best dressed social figures, wearing little fur pieces over their cocktail dresses and evening gowns to brave off the chill as they arrived at soignée events and galas).<br /><br /><img src="http://lookonline.com/blogfiles/furs-designerofyear.jpg" /><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">Winner Chris Benz with FICA Director Keith Kaplan<br /></span><br />There were opening remarks from Keith Kaplan, the FICA executive director, a short video which introduced the 12 nominated designers (96 editors received ballots and voted, factoring in creativity, wearability, and salability), and still another highlighting furs shown at designers’ shows. At the end, two winners were named: one for ‘Accessories’ (the honor went to Doo.Ri who was not present), and one for ‘Full Garment’ (the winner was Chris Benz who was there to pick up his award).<br /><br /><img src="http://lookonline.com/blogfiles/furs-threedes.jpg" /><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">'Future of Fashion' winners: From Left, Paulina Bui, Sara Shahbazi, and Alisha Moten<br /></span><br />In addition, there were three dress forms featuring the innovative fur designs of three young designers representing the ‘future of fashion’ (Sara Shahbazi and Paulina Bui from Parsons and Aisha Moten from Virginia Commonwealth). I was particularly impressed with Ms. Shahbazi, (she graduates this month), who handed me a very professional booklet which was filled with black and white photos (which she took) of her ultra modern, luxurious yet streetwise fall/winter 2009 collection, which is “based on her fascination with Richard Serra’s sculptors”. She explains that she was “inspired by the modern lines and curved hems of Richard Serra’s sculptors”, and to that end, she concentrated on an urban and neutral palette of shades of gray, silver, teal blue, and black.<br /><br /><img src="http://lookonline.com/blogfiles/fur-sara.jpg" /><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">Sara Shahbazi with her blue iris coat</span><br /><br />Her work emphasizes fabric mixes and rich textures through the use of fine wool, cashmere, sequins, knitted stitches, leather, and of course, fur. In fact, two standouts in her collection which speak volumes about her talents, are the black lamb leather cropped jacket with over the shoulder curved panels and quilted detail, and the blue iris coat with mixed sheared and long hair curved pieces which was on display at the FICA luncheon. Mark my words; Sara is a name to watch.<br /><br /><img src="http://lookonline.com/blogfiles/furs-sarajacket.jpg" /><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">Sara Shahbazi's black lamb leather cropped jacket<br /></span><br />In the meanwhile, (while I’m on the topic of furs) it’s ‘that’ time of year again. If you are searching for the best all inclusive fur storage company, one that offers a wide variety of services, expert leather cleaning and conditioning, top notch customer service, and will help you to restyle or transform any of your treasured pieces, look no further than Anne Dee Goldin’s GoldinStyle, <a href="http://www.goldinstyle.com/">http://www.goldinstyle.com/</a>. For more information, call 212 239 0512 or email, info@GoldinStyle.com<br /><br />-Marilyn KirschnerErnesthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02772967757760907864noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3313864.post-11297188169509757212008-05-08T13:46:00.009-04:002008-05-09T08:54:47.575-04:00<strong><span style="font-size:180%;">ASCOT, ‘SHMASCOT’</span></strong><br /><br /><img src="http://lookonline.com/blogfiles/floawardsfloral1hat.jpg" /><br /><br />As a fashion spectacle (where hats take center stage), almost nothing compares to The Frederick Law Olmsted Awards Luncheon, organized by the Women’s Committee of the Central Park Conservancy. The 26th FLO luncheon took place on Wednesday, May 7th, spearheaded by chairwomen Memrie Lewis, Gillian Miniter, Nancy Missett, and Tara Rockefeller, boasted a guest list which included some of New York’s biggest movers and shakers (Mayor Bloomberg and Martha Stewart among them), and best dressed social fixtures (Jamee Gregory, Amy Fine Collins, Somers Farkas, Susan Fales-Hill, Muffie Potter Aston). Those honored “for their outstanding commitment and contributions to preserving the park” were Nancy Paduano, Margaret and Ian Smith.<br /><br />In fact, this annual rite of spring (which is the Central Park Conservancy’s largest benefit), has become known as the “Hat Luncheon”. And for a good reason. What began as a small intimate gathering for a few hundred is currently a popular ‘see and be seen’ date on one’s social calendar, which now draws well over 1200 guests, most of whom apparently use the theme and location of the event as a perfect opportunity to ‘cap’ off their spring finery with a hat. And as everyone knows, hats are ‘big’ these days. In fact, the millinery industry has been getting a real boost from the fashion world these past few seasons what with influential designers such as Marc Jacobs, Ralph Lauren, Proenza Schouler, Carolina Herrera, Alexander McQueen, Donna Karan, featuring hats prominently on their runways.<br /><br /><img src="http://lookonline.com/blogfiles/floawardshotpinkandblack22.jpg" /><br /><br />While some of the headgear worn by guests at the FLO luncheon could admittedly best be described as ordinary, run of the mill and ‘garden variety’ (pardon the pun), and not every woman (or man) wore a hat, (no, that was not Mayor Bloomberg wearing a flower laden chapeau), there were many guests whose inspired, whimsical choices proved they put a great deal of thought and planning into their outfits, and were obviously inspired, as usual, by the enviable natural setting of the location, (the breathtaking Conservatory Garden).<br /><br /><img src="http://lookonline.com/blogfiles/floawardsamy.jpg" /><br />Right: Amy Fine Collins<br /><span style="font-size:85%;">Photo: Patrick McMullan for the Central Park Conservancy</span><br /><br />And so, it was not surprising (and somewhat predictable) to find flowers everywhere; flowers decorating hats and floral printed dresses and coat ensembles. Perhaps it was a case of floral overkill in some instances where guests mixed the two…yikes! And it was hardly surprising that everywhere I looked there were guests clad in colors that mimicked flowers: pink in every shade was a crowd favorite and I noticed a lot of shocking pink worn with black (a real trend this spring), in addition to lilac, purple, yellows, red, and greens. And then there were the feathers….which are obviously not just ‘for the birds’ and continue to be a perennial favorite with both women and fashion designers. Feathers of all kinds, in all sizes and colors adorned every imaginable style of hat. And then there were butterflies: one huge butterfly (no, not a real one) was sitting atop a garden of flowers on one woman’s large hat.<br /><br />Okay, so it didn’t always work and quite frankly, taken out of context and away from the gorgeous surroundings, (walking around in mid town for example) many of the guests would have looked downright silly if not preposterous. But in the most glorious spot in Central Park, with the lush greenery, breathtaking flowers, and the sun shining brightly on a gorgeous spring day (they say “it never rains on the FLO Awards” and this year was no exception…the legend continues!), everything takes on a life of its own.<br /><br /><img src="http://lookonline.com/blogfiles/floawards-mayor.jpg" /><br /> Mayor Bloomberg with the Conservancy's President, Douglas Blonsky<br /><span style="font-size:85%;">Photo: Patrick McMullan for the Central Park Conservancy</span><br /><br />I know this is not a ‘fashion’ event per se, the guest list is not solely<br />comprised of fashionistas and fashion insiders (could it be that Mayor Bloomberg was the only one present at the FLO luncheon who also attended Monday evening's Costume Institute Gala?!?) so you must temper my comments with a grain of salt. From my perspective, I would like to see more women show some individuality and not look so Garden Party-ish, and wearing hats that look like bad cast offs from last year’s Kentucky Derby.<br /><br /><img src="http://lookonline.com/blogfiles/floawards-farkas.jpg" /><br />Somers Farkas<br /><span style="font-size:85%;">Photo: Patrick McMullan for the Central Park Conservancy</span><br /><br />Which is why my vote for 'Best in Show’, has to go to statuesque social fixture Somers Farkas, who literally put everyone else to shame arriving in a dramatic starched white floor length shirtdress, accessorized with a messenger bag slung over her body, low heeled sandals, and a jaunty staw fedora adorned with a spray of white ostrich feathers. Of course, being almost 6 feet tall, rail thin, perpetually suntanned, and great looking doesn't hurt (who said life is fair?) and admittedly not too many others could have pulled that off. That said, I can’t think of a better excuse to "go with the 'FLO'", let loose, lighten up, dress up, have fun, smile, and most importantly, raise money ($2.4 million to be exact) for a great cause.<br /><br />-Marilyn KirschnerErnesthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02772967757760907864noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3313864.post-18478552543424123392008-05-08T12:01:00.002-04:002008-05-08T12:06:24.459-04:00<strong><span style="font-size:180%;">'Better Bet's' Column</span></strong><br /><br />Rhonda Erb's brings back our popular column on what is new and interesting in New York retail, fashion, accessories and hip technology. <a href="http://www.lookonline.com/betterbets-new.html">Click here and enjoy!</a>Ernesthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02772967757760907864noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3313864.post-87973549437853703762008-05-06T03:44:00.016-04:002008-05-07T15:49:49.597-04:00<strong><span style="font-size:180%;">…..With a Capital ‘S’</span></strong><br /><br /><img src="http://lookonline.com/blogfiles/star-statues.jpg" /><br /><br />Ever since word got out that the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute would be mounting its "Superheroes: Fashion and Fantasy" exhibition (May 7 – September 1, 2008), preceded by a Gala Benefit (hosted by Honorary Chair Giorgio Armani and Co-Chaired by Anna Wintour, George Clooney, and Julia Roberts), it seems the fashion world (always enamored with stars or anything ‘super’) could not get enough of the ‘S’ word. Certainly, it’s hard to squabble with the super duper star power of George and Julia who are arguably the two biggest superstars in the world. And say what you will about Giorgio Armani, the man has staying power and star power and through the years he has dressed some of the biggest stars in the world. He was a ‘super star’ designer long before the term was coined.<br /><br /><img src="http://lookonline.com/blogfiles/star-group2.jpg" /><br /><br />To be sure, there was no shortage of the ‘S’ word, during Monday morning’s press conference and press preview. First to address the assembled crowd was Anna Wintour who wasted no time singing the praises of Philippe de Montebello, the revered director of the Metropolitan Museum of Art who is not only the longest serving director of the institution but the longest serving director of any major art museum in the world, and who recently announced his plans to retire at the end of 2008. Anna enthused, "even though the fashion world may not be his world", it nonetheless owes a "huge debt of gratitude" to Philippe, who is "alone among world class museum directors" in that he has had "the vision to acknowledge the role that style, self presentation, and design play in modern culture" and has "executed that vision in a way that has inspired millions to think of fashion as one of our most complex and rich decorative arts". She remarked that within the Costume Institute’s "greatest shows" (which she labeled as "modern and directional while at the same time offering the sweeping historical perspective that is a signature of what this great museum stands for"), and in Philippe’s tenure, he has "given us the freedom to explore the connections between what we wear and how we live".<br /><br /><img src="http://lookonline.com/blogfiles/star-group.jpg" /><br /><br />She further noted that "fortunately for all of us, Philippe likes the mix of costumes included the museums’ exhibitions to be as diverse, provocative, and exciting, as the guest list for the dinner itself" and referred to him as a most "gracious, unflappable and hospitable of hosts". And I can’t help but add that ‘unforunately’, thanks to Anna’s contribution of exclusivitity to this annual event, most of us mere mortals will not get a chance to see that wonderful ‘mix’. Be that as it may, Anna was visibly emotional as her voice wavered and she seemed to choke back tears as she introduced Philippe during which time the ‘love fest’ continued.<br /><br /><img src="http://lookonline.com/blogfiles/star-super.jpg" /><br /><br />For his part, Mr. de Montebello referred to Anna Wintour as a "superhero’ in terms of fashion and in terms of her contributions to the Costume Institute, and he praised Andrew Bolton, Curator, and Harold Koda, Curator in Charge, for their tireless and creative input. The legend gave fashion an intellectual boost by referring to it as a "full fledged member of the academic part of this institution" and did his part to elevate it to lofty heights by questioning, "Why must objects of art only be rectangular and hung, as opposed to being worn?" (This got quite a laugh from the audience).<br /><br /><img src="http://lookonline.com/blogfiles/stars-pair.jpg" /><br /><br />He spoke of the connection between superheroes of ancient times (whose likenesses reside in museum’s permanent collection) and modern day superheroes (who are just ‘visiting’ until the end of August) and made the observation that Hercules was the inspiration behind Superman and the Diana, the Huntress, was the inspiration for Wonder Woman. And speaking of myths and superheroes, he spoke of the "myth of Anna Wintour who has co chaired this event for the past 10 years", and introduced "a true myth in his own time, Giorgio Armani, the host for the gala".<br /><br />Giorgio proved to be gracious, funny, humble, and somewhat self deprecating, as he revealed, through the help of an interpreter (GA barely speaks barely one word of English), that he had forgotten the paper with his speech but said he’d "figure something out". He made the observation that fashion "helps people to live" and he praised New York, calling the city a center of fashion, a place where fashion is not only something which is enjoyed by the rich, but by everyone.<br /><br />He thanked Anna for the obviously large part she played in connecting him with "Superheroes, Fashion and Fantasy" though he admitted he was "surprised" to be named as Honorary Chairman, conceding that there was a rather large "contrast" between the tone of the exhibition and the "name Armani". But he also said that it was precisely this contrast that makes it "special and interesting". He laughingly (and perhaps knowingly) said "the curators must have worked hard to find something of his to fit in this exhibit but they succeeded". He also spoke of the trickle down theory inherent in fashion, with his admission that Thierry Mugler’s exaggerated shoulders inspired his own designs, and he thanked the cartoonists from the 30’s and 40’s who "conceived the caricatures", ending with the thought that "the homes from Flash Gordon we live in today". And as fate would have it, by the time he was finished his impromptu speech, he found the paper with his notes ("I’ll use it another time" he joked).<br /><br />Last up was Andrew Bolton who thanked Anna Wintour, Philippe de Montebello, Harold Koda, and his colleagues, and with whom I had the opportunity to speak. When they first toyed with the idea of this exhibit 5 years ago, the premise was extreme sportswear, performance clothes that literally transform you to a superhero. It later morphed into an exhibition which addresses core issues of body, identity, and transformation, and the connection between fact and fiction (which is diminishing). The best way to describe the items featured is "extreme, phantasmagoric, hard edged, aggressive, overtly sexualized fashion" but perhaps most importantly, the exhibit celebrates the "remarkable creativity and imagination of the designers".<br />When I asked Andrew to describe the Armani pieces selected, he said that out of the approximately 60, (6 to 8 of which are movie costumes), there were three: a ‘Spider’ dress (in a Spider Man webbed pattern), a menswear piece which has a breast place, and a silver dress with the allusion of armor (in the armored body section). Since the exhibit is all about extreme fashion and fantasy, I was curious as to which pieces, if any, he would label as the most ‘wearable’. Andrew wasted no time in singling out the "Giorgio Armani and John Galliano spider dresses, inspired by the beautifully crafted femme fatale dresses from the 1920’s and 1930’s."<br /><br />-Marilyn Kirschner<br /><br /><span style="font-size:180%;"><strong>From the Red Carpet:</strong><br /></span><br /><img src="http://lookonline.com/blogfiles/star-bam.jpg" /><br />What a day May 5th proved to be!<br /></span><br />As of the date above, The Metropolitan Museum of Art is running one of the most unique exhibits ever seen in a museum: titled "Superheroes: Fashion and Fantasy", it is dedicated to the intricate web that links Fashion and Super Heroes. It is a must-be-seen display of beautiful gowns and outfits, unique and spectacular backgrounds, all helping to see right away the connection between the two worlds.<br /><br />"Superheroes are about issues of the body, identity and transformation, about acting your fantasies and transforming yourself into anyone or anything you want to be," said Costume Institute curator Andrew Bolton. ?Those are all the things at the heart of fashion."<br /><br />The highlight of the day was the gala taking place that very evening at the Museum: this red carpet may have never seen a gathering of so many celebrities. They were all there.<br /><br /><img src="http://lookonline.com/blogfiles/star-armani-clooney.jpg" /><br />George Clooney with Julia Roberts and Giorgio Armani<br /><span style="font-size:85%;">Photo: Randy Brooke</span><br /><br />It started with Giorgio Armani (Honorary Chair) flanked by Co-Chairs George Clooney and Julia Roberts (both wearing Armani, bien sur) and Vogue Editor-In-Chief Anna Wintour, dressed in a beautiful Chanel silver evening gown.<br /><br /><img src="http://lookonline.com/blogfiles/star-wintour.jpg" /><br />Left: Anna Wintour with daughter<br /><span style="font-size:85%;">Photo: Randy Brooke</span><br /><br />From then on, the outpouring of stars and celebrities went on and on: the fashion world was represented by Donna Karan, Diane Von Furtsenberg, Vera Wang, Donatella Versace, Valentino, Karl Lagerfeld, Kimora Lee Simmons, Zac Posen, Stella Mc Cartney, Tommy Hilfiger, Stefano Gabbana and Domenico Dolce, Anna Sui, Marc Jacobs.... I may be missing a name or two here, the event had a monster turn out. Also spotted was Kelly Klein, as beautiful and as smiling as ever.<br /><br /><img src="http://lookonline.com/blogfiles/star-cruise.jpg" /><br />Tome Cruise &amp; Katie Holmes<br /><span style="font-size:85%;">Photo: Randy Brooke<br /></span><br />On the celebrities side, Katie Holmes, was her gorgeous self in an amazing coral red Armani dress with husband Tom Cruise (dressed in Armani as well), Beyonce Knowles (Armani), the actress Tilda Swinton in a beautiful Prada gown, Jennifer Lopez (in a pale green and flattering Alberta Ferreti gown) with husband Marc Anthony, Mischa Barton wearing Missoni, Kate Moss, Sarah Michelle Gellar, Ellen Barkin, Eva Mendes (in a Calvin Klein gown), Dita von Teese (wearing Marchesa) Jerry and Jessica Seinfeld (as discreet as ever), Scarlett Johanssen with her engagement ring (but without her fiance) was accompanied by the Dolce and Gabbana (dynamic) duo and wearing one of their gowns, Eva Longoria, actress Kristen Davis (Sex and the City) was beautiful, charming and smiling in a Michael Kors gown, Christine Ricci (why does she insist on wearing odd looking and unflattering outfits?), Josh Jackson and Diane Kruger, Ivanka Trump (dressed by Gilles Mendel), her father Donald and his new wife were also present, Sarah Silverman, Claire Danes, Stephanie Seymour, Fergie, Brazilian supermodel Gisele Bundchen (in Versace) with boyfriend Tom Brady (New England Patriots quarterback)... Jon Bon Jovi (Armani), John Mayer (Armani), Emily Rossum, Blaine Trump, Hillary Duff, Emily Mortimer, Emily Rossum, Naomi Watts, the unavoidable David and Victoria Beckham, Claudia Schiffer, Charlotte Gainsbourg (ah! the French chic in itself is a super power), Janet Jackson and her boyfriend, music producer Jermaine Dupri, Liv Tyler (wearing Calvin Klein), Iman and David Bowie, Natascha Richardson, Michelle Trachtenberg (in a beautiful vintage Yves Saint Laurent dress), Linda Carter with her Wonder Woman cuffs, Venus Williams, model Karolina Kurkova, Kate Bosworth, country music singer Taylor Swift, and the list would not be complete without mentioning the presence of the sexiest woman of them all: actress and former super model Lauren Hutton.<br /><br />Mayor Michael Bloomberg was also among the guests.<br /><br />All together, 750 or so guests attended the event. Even for the press only stationed at the entrance and not invited inside, the affair was a party in itself: so many beautifully dressed people, many of them gracious and going along with the obligatory smiles and poses, so that the photographers could take a shot at them, many stopping for short interviews here and there... it was "a zoo" as the saying goes, but a beautiful one.<br /><br />Everyone seemed to have super powers tonight: Anna Wintour stated that she was Storm, the X Men heroes, "I control the weather" she said. As for Julia Roberts, she is quoted as having said that "it take super powers to stay up that late" (but it was only 7 pm at the time....???). Almost all of the red carpet attendees had super powered outfits that were an homage to what fashion can give its wearers: super power glamour!!<br /><br />Along with the fabulous exhibit at the Museum, the red carpet event was a (super) powered affair attended by (super) celebrities, (super) stylists and (super) fashion designers...not to mention (super) photographers, (super) press people and journalists, (super) security people who kept the whole affair very well organized and running smoothly.<br /><br />With Giorgio Armani as (a super) benefactor, (super) Anna Wintour and Vogue, the Metropolitan Museum and the fashion world were honored and celebrated with many people dressed in fantastic outfits that could only be challenged by super heroes powers and outfits! And these could be found right inside, just feet away from the hoopla taking place.<br /><br />Pow!!!! Bam!!!! Zowie!!!!!!! What a night! And what a beautiful exhibit! Kudos to all involved in the making of the exhibit and the gala, everything was perfect and enchanting to the max... a fairy tale extravanganza fitting for the occasion at hand.<br /><br />- Muriel Geny-Triffaut<br /><br /><a href="http://www.coutorture.com/1607497" target="_blank"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2333/2366505283_5eaffbd30e.jpg?v=0" alt="" width="150" height="58" /></a>Ernesthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02772967757760907864noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3313864.post-70349074327136793822008-04-24T18:26:00.001-04:002008-04-24T18:33:52.182-04:00<strong><span style="font-size:180%;">What is New with Our Editors<br /></span></strong><br />Lookonline's entertainment editor Diane Clehane has several must-read pieces in Variety's "Inside New York" Special Report out this week. She reports on how the fashion industry has eagerly embraced "Sex &amp; The City: The Movie" and pulled out all the stops in wardrobing Carrie and crew. Diane also breaks news about Vogue's involvement in the film. Also in the issue: How editors like Nina Garcia have become the new media stars, exclusiv