DFR: DAILY FASHION REPORT

2010-02-05T07:49:00.005-05:00

A Conversation with Donna Karan

(Photo credit: Parsons The New School for Design)

Dr. Valerie Steele, director and chief curator of The Museum at FIT, sat down last evening with Donna Karan for a discussion about fashion, fabric, culture, Haiti, philanthropy, Urban Zen and the new fashion graduate programs at Parsons. The conversation took place at The New School�s Tishman Auditorium. This fall, Parsons is launching two graduate fashion programs -- a first in the school�s history.

Alumna Donna Karan inspired the MFA in Fashion Design and Society, an advanced degree for emerging designers who are poised to become the next generation of industry leaders. Karan�s career has embraced a broad view of fashion and helped define a new chapter in American fashion design. The program is led by Shelley Fox, the Donna Karan Professor of Fashion at Parsons. Fox is an award winning designer whose work has been exhibited in the U.S. and internationally. Scholarships for the program have been established through a generous gift from designer and CFDA President, Diane von Furstenberg.

The second program is an MA in Fashion Studies. The theory-based program explores and analyzes fashion in its complex manifestations as object, image, cultural practice and concept. The curriculum is geared for students with degrees in humanities and social sciences as well as those with art, design and fashion industry backgrounds.

Karan, who looked fabulous in black pants, boots, wrap/scarf and her favorite beads from Senegal, appeared relaxed as she talked to Valerie and later answered questions from the audience. �My inspiration comes from dressing from the inside, not the outside,� Karan said. This was a topic that Karan brought up several times and she stressed the importance of staying centered and establishing a balance between work, family and other responsibilities.

Philanthropy plays a big role in Karan�s life. She is passionate about giving back to society, lending a helping hand and embracing other cultures. Karan founded the Urban Zen Foundation which is dedicated to combining eastern philosophy with western medicine. The foundation creates, connects and collaborates to raise awareness and inspire change in the areas of well-being, preserving cultures and empowering children. �When the disaster in Haiti happened, it hit me like a hammer on the head,� Karan said. �I had a collection due, but I had to go help out.� To make a donation, visit www.urbanzenfoundation.org or bring non-perishables, clothing, shoes etc. to the Urban Zen Center at the Stephen Weiss Studio at 711 Greenwich Street, NYC.

Karan believes that conscious consumerism is the future of fashion and when an audience member asked her opinion on the bleak job situation in the industry, Karan seemed optimistic. �Today, it�s not enough to be talented. In order to succeed, you need to have a singular creative vision as well as a strong understanding of social, technological and cultural issues that influence fashion.� She also added, �Ego is the one thing that might be obliterated. Fashion may become more of a collaborative effort.�

The entire conversation between Steele and Karan will be available in the next few days on YouTube. For more information on the new graduate programs at Parsons, visit www.newschool.edu/thinkparsons .

-Stacy Lomman
taffetadarlings.blogspot.com/

2010-01-29T16:09:00.003-05:00

Quite a Fashionable Summer

So it seems that things at Loft are becoming more upmarket and fashiony with each new collection, and if the summer 2010 grouping is any example of all of this, fashion shoppers should be more than just a little bit happy with what the company has in store for the warm summer days ahead, especially when it comes to lots of style at reasonable price points for the masses.

Although Loft may have been, at times, viewed by some in the fashion arena as quite classic and somewhat mundane, much of this obviously has changed over the past few seasons, as evidenced by the "cool quotient" given to many of the clothing and accessories pieces, rendered by a new design team, brought in, probably, to make Loft appear that much more hip and desireable to shoppers.

Obviously, the basic premise for Loft is to continually fulfill the desire of those shoppers for something unique and different from season to season, while, at the same time, also filling the desire to captivate and attract those shoppers in difficult econimic times, while bringing them to Loft and keeping them in the store to buy. With all of the sharp, new, modestly-priced clothing and accessories served up over the past several seasons, it appears that the company is on the right track towards achieving those goals.

Hooking into what is new and what is definitely cool, Loft presented its summer 2010 collection to members of the fashion press and other VIP guests at Industria Superstudios, located in the ever-trendy, downtown NYC Meatpacking district. Along with lots of cocktails and snacks, guests were treated to an up-close-and-personal viewing of the coming season's range of super casual, very pretty, and quite wearable pieces, all shown on simple hangers and glossy, white, faceless mannequins, without any live models in sight. Keeping guests in the moment at the end of the evening, were the parting gifts; deluxe white boxes with a pink Loft logo, all neatly tied up with a ribboned, flower brooch, and filled with the company's look-book, plus an eclectic piece of jewelry.

Overall, just about everything in this new grouping fits well into what Loft's idea of what summertime dressing should look like. This idea, which focuses on untortured and easy-to-wear pieces across the board, translates into plenty of jeans, shorts and cropped and long pants, mostly all layered up with varied choices of blouses, T-shirts, soft cardigans and little coats and jackets. Dresses are equally great in mixed silhouettes and prints, which easily go from short and flirty, all the way through to longest flowing maxi pieces; the latter bringing to mind, the fun and elegance of exclusive resortwear.

Accessories - from the most fun and whimsical, through to the most sophisticated and exclusive - most definitely hit the mark and do make the point for such a chic look here. Of note are the soft leather cluthches; the big, squishy, bucket totes, rendered in a host of nifty prints and patterns; charming bracelets and earrlings; whimsical pom-pom scarves; and leather and corded belts, shown at the waist and hip, or worn empire style. Not to be missed are the multi-length chokers and necklaces; which look good worn either single or layered, in styles such as the long sea glass dangle; black beaded bib; bronze bauble and cord necklace; longest silver necklace with horn rings; and the grey fabric/chain-link/ribboned bib necklace, so decidedly reminiscent for this editor, of the kind of jewelry which Henry VIII or any important Lady at The Court of "The Tudors" might have worn during the period.

-- Adrienne Weinfeld-Berg

2010-01-26T11:20:00.003-05:00

Costume Designers Guild Award Nominees

Nominees and award honorees for the 12th annual Costume Designers Guild Awards has been announced today. The winners will be revealed at the awards gala with SWAROVSKI as presenting sponsor, on Thursday, February 25, 2010 at the Beverly Hilton. Celebrity host will be announced in the upcoming week.

This year, the Swarovski Award is being presented to Emily Blunt. The newly titled award is designed to spotlight exceptional talent and the prospect of a sparkling career ahead. Academy Award & BAFTA Award-winning British costume designer, Sandy Powell will receive the Lacoste Career Achievement in Film Award. Michael Travis, known for his work on many television shows and specials including, �Rowan & Martin�s Laugh-In� and �Frank Sinatra's Welcome Home Party for Elvis Presley,� will be the recipient of the Career Achievement in Television Award. The Distinguished Collaborator Award will be presented to famed director, Rob Marshall. This year, the

Costume Designers Guild�s Hall of Fame Award will be presented posthumously to Emmy Award winning costume designer and former CDG President, Robert Turturice.

The Costume Designers Guild was founded in 1953 by a group of 30 motion picture costume designers and was created in response to the changing needs of the movie industry. The Costume Designers Guild promotes the artistry, technical expertise and creative vision of their union members in the field of film and television Costume Design. Today, its membership consists of over 700 members and includes motion picture, television, and commercial costume designers, assistant costume designers and illustrators throughout the world.

The Nominees:

Big Love � Chrisi Karvonides-Dushenko
OUTSTANDING CONTEMPORARY TELEVSION SERIES
Dancing with the Stars � Randall Christensen
Glee � Lou Eyrich
No. 1 Ladies� Detective Agency � Jo Katsaras
Ugly Betty � Patricia Field
Mad Men �Janie Bryant

OUTSTANDING PERIOD/FANTASY TELEVSION SERIES
True Blood � Audrey Fisher
The Tudors � Joan Bergin
Georgia O�Keeffe � Michael Dennison

OUTSTANDING MADE FOR TELEVISION MOVIE OR MINI SERIES
Grey Gardens � Catherine Marie Thomas
Little Dorrit � Barbara Kidd
(500) Days of Summer � Hope Hanafin

EXCELLENCE IN CONTEMPORARY FILM
Br�no � Jason Alper
Crazy Heart - Doug Hall
Precious: Based on the Novel Push by Sapphire � Marina Draghici
Up in the Air � Danny Glicker
Coco Before Chanel � Catherine Leterrier

EXCELLENCE IN PERIOD FILM
Julie & Julia � Ann Roth
Nine � Colleen Atwood
Sherlock Holmes � Jenny Beavan
The Young Victoria � Sandy Powell
Avatar � Mayes C. Rubeo & Deborah Lynn Scott

EXCELLENCE IN FANTASY FILM
The Imaginarium of Doctor Parnassus � Monique Prudhomme
Star Trek � Michael Kaplan
Milk: �Milkquarious� � Casey Storm

EXCELLENCE IN COMMERCIAL COSTUME DESIGN
Milk: "Milkquarious" � Casey Storm

For more information: Alexandra Lippin or Michael Samonte of The Lippin Group at 323-965-1990 or dan@ingledodd.com. For all other inquiries, please contact The jLINE Group at 310-601-3220. alippin@lippingroup.com. To purchase tickets, please contact Blue Room Events, at 310-491-1401. For Tribute Book advertising, please contact Dan Dodd at 310-207-4410 x236 or dan@ingledodd.com. For all other inquiries, please contact The jLINE Group at 310-601-3220

2010-01-23T10:13:00.005-05:00

Friday the 13th

This past Friday may have actually read Friday, the 22nd on the calendar, but for one organization, it was indeed Friday the 13th (and in this case, I mean, lucky 13th). Fashion Group International held its 13th annual Rising Star Luncheon this past Friday, and it was one of the chicest, most festive, celebratory, and highly efficient in memory.

Each year it seems this annual event (a reception, luncheon, and awards ceremony which honors eight �outstanding individuals for their innovation, creativity, and accomplishments�), has become more and more prestigious, more high profile, and highly anticipated, and indeed, it�s become so popular, it was sold out this time around.

In addition, there were a few things that were new, and as it turns out, they were also �improved� (from my point of view anyway). It has traditionally been held on a Thursday, but was moved to Friday, and this year, the venue of choice was the beautiful and very grand Cipriani 42nd Street. Let�s face it: it�s hard to find a space with more elegant ambience or such a central, convenient location. And of course, the food is always wonderful, with a menu that boasted sea bass, asparagus, and lemon meringue pie with mixed berries (ah, spring is in the air!)

FGI President Margaret Hayes made her welcoming remarks noting that the importance of this program is to �support Fashion Group�s mission to promote rising star talent�. She added, �I want to acknowledge the talent, skill, commitment, and fortitude that brought you (the nominees) to this amazing journey�.

The keynote speaker was Nina Garcia, fashion editor extraordinaire, and fashion director of Marie Claire, who is perhaps best known as one of the judges on �Project Runway�. Though she was fighting a cold, and seemed to be on the verge of losing her voice, she got through her rousing speech brilliantly, as she addressed the nominees, giving them a laundry list of pointers, tips, and good sound advice to keep in mind on their road to success.

Here is some of what she said:�

�I am pleased to be celebrating the incredible talent in the room today�.
�The future of fashion is in this room�.
�Today�s fashion icons were once rule breakers�.
"You have to know at the outset who you are and what you are.�
�Be yourself. Be your boldest, out- of- the- box self�.
�The ones most self assured, most focused, are the ones who make it. This is not a time to play it safe. Play it smart�.
�Challenge us, inspire us, surprise us. Get in our faces.�
�Never underestimate the power of fashion. It is a reflection of our culture and our times. Be daring. Be bold. Make fashion history.�

This is a list of the award presenters, nominees, and the winners in each of the 8 categories:

Accessories:
Award Presenter: CINDY WEBER-CLEARY
Katherine Fleming - Katherine Fleming LLC
Robin Frances Stern - It's About Time
Shai Levy - Seventy Eight Percent
Adriana Castro - Adriana Castro
Cornelia Petronis - Mark
Amanda Brotman - Amanda Pearl, LLC

Winner: Amanda Pearl Brotman, Amanda Pearl, LLC.

Beauty/Fragrance Corporate
Award Presenter: JANE LARKWORTHY
Jaclyn Rebecca Davis - MAC Cosmetics
Jerome Roux - Coty Prestige
Irina Burlakova - Givaudan Fragrances Corp.
Juliette Karagueuzoglou � IFF (International Flavors & Fragrances)

Winner: Juliette Karagueuzoglou, IFF

Beauty/Fragrance Entrepreneur:
Award Presenter: FREDERIC FEKKAI
Lisa Hoffman - Lisa Hoffman Beauty
Danny Seo - Wholearth Beauty and Bath
Janet League- Katzin - Sphatika International, LLC
Matthew Malin & Andrew Goetz - MALIN + GOETZ
Frederick Bouchardy - Joya LLC

Winner: Janet League-Katzin-Sphatika International, LLC.

Home/Interior Design:
Award Presenter: CLODAGH
Dror Benshetrit - Dror
Luke Vahle - Fifth Season Design
Joey Roth - Joey Roth
Shawn Henderson - Shawn Henderson

Winner: Dror Benshetrit-Dror

Fine Jewelry:
Award Presenter: AMEDEO SCOGNAMIGLIO & ROBERTO FARAONE MENNELLA
Monica Rich Kosann - Monica Rich Kosann
Nina Basharova - Nina Basharova Jewelry Design
Visnja Brdar - Visnja Jewels
Kelly Amorim - Carla Amorim Jewelry

Winner: Monica Rich Kosann-Monica Rich Kosann

Men's Apparel:
Award Presenter: ROBERT BRYAN
Anthony Keegan & Richard Christiansen - Commonwealth Utilities
Paul Marlow - Loden Dager
Loris Diran - Loris Diran
Stefan Dahlkvist, Simen Staalnacke & Peder Borresen -
Moods of Norway International

Winner: Anthony Keegan & Richard Christiansen-Commonwealth Utilities

Retail:
Award Presenter: BETH BUCCINI
John Bartlett - John Bartlett
Edward Chai & Paul Birardi - ODIN New York
Helena Greene - Swing Concept Shop
Barbara Moore - B. Moore Design, Inc.
Alexandra Galgano - Charm and Chain

Winner: Edward Chai & Paul Birardi- Odin, New York

Women's RTW:
Award Presenters: FRANCISCO COSTA, LINDA FARGO
Joseph Altuzarra - Altuzarra
Bibhu Mohapatra - Bibhu Mohapatra
Carly Cushnie & Michelle Ochs - Cushnie et Ochs
Matthew Ames - Matthew Ames
Michael Angel - Michael Angel
Nima Taherzadeh - NIMA
Peter Hidalgo - Peter Hidalgo
Prabal Gurung - Prabal Gurung
Brigitte Schwenner - Sievering LLC

Winners (It was a tie): Joseph Altuzarra-Altuzarra; Peter Hidalgo- Peter Hidalgo

-Marilyn Kirschner

2010-01-22T08:10:00.004-05:00

Is Retail Recovering?

The Holidays are over and we�ve entered a new decade. Will 2010 prove to be better year for retail? And how did the 2009 holiday season stack up? The Retail Marketing Society hosted a luncheon at the Williams Club on January 20th to discuss these topics. After some nibbles and socializing, Angela Jameson of the International Council of Shopping Centers (ICSC) presented an overview of the outlook for retail sales. Ms. Jameson was happy to report that store sales for November/December were up 2.3% from last year (3.6% for December alone). Apparently, consumers shopped much later in the season and although sales began slowly, the totals still came out ahead of 2008�s numbers. Luxury was the highest performer with sales up 7.1% in December 2009. In fact, the luxury market is predicted to remain the leader in sales performance for 2010 (estimated 6% - 8%). To this point, guest speaker Marni Shapiro commented, �Rich people didn�t lose ALL their money; they still have some to spend.�

Ms. Shapiro, Managing Partner for The Retail Tracker, spoke about �The New Retail � The Reset Button: What Went Wrong & What Went Right.� Shapiro is an entertaining speaker and a fountain of knowledge when it comes to the world of retail and the consumer. According to Shapiro, brand DNA is the most significant element when it comes to successful selling. A brand must define itself in a few words. The customer should have a quick and clear picture of what the brand stands for and offers. Some examples are: Ann Taylor - career dressing; Juicy - velour sweat suits; Louis Vuitton - luxury. Also, it is imperative that a brand embrace their DNA rather than fight their identity. �I don�t understand why JC Penney insists on going after that 22 year old customer.� Shapiro said.

The general forecast for retail performance is not completely bleak for 2010, but today, more than ever, people are looking for value. Opportunities to generate sales lie within areas where consumers can spend money to feel good about themselves. Beauty is a category in which people will begin to upgrade their products. �As the client gains confidence in the economy, she will go back to buying the more expensive mascara that she truly loves rather than continue using the drug store brand that she compromised with the past year,� Shapiro said. On an internal rather than external level, the customer will more likely be inclined to make a purchase that donates a portion of the sale to a charity.

The most important thing to offer the client is the ability to buy exactly what he/she wants, where he/she wants and when. Today, retailers must make it as easy as possible for the shopper. Shapiro joked about her desire to live in a �Jetson-like� world in which we all have our own bar codes. �I see a future where everyone will walk around with cell phones programmed with their bar code, credit card information and shipping address so that all we need to do is scan the items we want.� Sounds great, doesn�t it?

To find out more about the Retail Marketing Society including membership and upcoming events, visit them online at www.retailmarketingsociety.org

-Stacy Lomman
taffetadarlings.blogspot.com/

2010-01-14T08:07:00.014-05:00

The 2010 FSF Geoffrey Beene Awards Dinner

(All photos Randy Brooke)

The 2010 FSF Geoffrey Beene National Scholarship Awards took place last night at Cipriani Forty Second Street. During the evening there was a special red carpet and cocktail hour, dinner and awards ceremony. The Geoffrey Beene company underwrote the event in the amount of over $500,000 as well as helping to provide funding for over 110 fashion scholarship fund students.

It really was a huge event and many in the fashion & beauty industries enthusiatically showed their support for the cause. Tickets were $850 each, and table sponsorships went up to $100,000. The awards were hosted this year by contributing Harper's Bazaar's editor and freelance stylist Mary Alice Stephenson.

This year's eight Geoffrey Beene National Scholarship Awards finalists

The YMA Fashion Scholarship Fund and The Geoffrey Beene Foundation have formed a five-year strategic alliance to further the mutual goal of expanding support for students seeking careers in the Fashion Industry. The Geoffrey Beene Foundation has donated approximately $2.25 million, out of in excess of $3 million, in total commitments to the Fund over the next five years.

Since the beginning of 2008, the Fashion Scholarship Fund has been granting four $25,000 "Geoffrey Beene National Scholarship Awards" to enterprising students majoring in fashion and related disciplines (design, merchandising, finance, marketing, retailing and liberal arts). These four $25,000 awards (four runner-ups receive $5000 each) are presented annually at the FSF Geoffrey Beene Scholarship Awards Dinner to the most outstanding students identified among the FSF's 28 partnering colleges and universities across the U.S.

The 2010 $25,000 Geoffrey Beene Scholars:

ALEXANDRA DUMAS
WASHINGTON UNIVERSITY IN ST. LOUIS

ASHLY JUSKUS
FASHION INSTITUTE OF TECHNOLOGY

KASIA WISNIEWSKI
PRATT INSTITUTE

LISA COHEN
UNIVERSITY OF PENNSYLVANIA, WHARTON SCHOOL

$5,000 Finalists

ALANA ABISDRIS
SYRACUSE UNIVERSITY

BECCA MURROW
INDIANA UNIVERSITY

KIARA WALKER
PARSONS THE NEW SCHOOL FOR DESIGN

MICHAEL LIN
OTIS COLLEGE OF ART AND DESIGN

2009-12-14T09:06:00.005-05:00

Better Bets

Holiday Shopping Guide

Rhonda Erb's popular shopping column begins a new season with her pick of the newest and most interesting gifts for the holidays.

Click here for her choice of beauty & health gifts.

Click here for her choice of watch gifts.

Click here for her choice of handbags.

Click here for her choice of the latest electronic gifts.

2009-12-09T08:53:00.018-05:00

Mais Oui Joaillerie de France

�Crazy Frog� ring, rendered in high gold, diamonds and emeralds, from the Haute Joaillerie grouping.

Leave it up to the French to do things in the most precise, the most beautiful, and of course, in always the most utterly creative ways. Case In Point: The recent Jewels of France Exhibition and Trunk Show - in partnership with UBIFrance and The French Trade Commission - held for the second year in New York City, at the toney Fifth Avenue Gallery of Aaron Faber - featuring au courant collections from thirteen of France's most acclaimed jewelry houses and their designers. The week long consumer event, which debuted with a lavish press breakfast and evening reception, including lots of fashion and social types, served up an abundant mix of jewelry and watches by many of the Creative Directors and designers beyond the labels.

So, why was this particular Gallery specifically chosen two years in a row for the event, you ask? The answer, according to Camille Wiart, Director of Business Development, Fashion and Jewelry, The French Trade Commission, "we are happy to be working again with the Aaron Faber Gallery, whose reputation and commitment to showcasing the best in contemporary studio jewelry, class and vintage jewelry, made it the obvious venue."

Thinking about French haute couture fashion, especially jewelry and accessories, might bring to mind the big gun brands, the ilk of an LVMH, but in the case of Jewels of France, the focus is on the smaller, less recognized and maybe not so well-oiled or hugely hyped, French jewelry houses, whose quality and craftsmanship is guaranteed by the French Union BJOP, as being designed, manufactured, mounted, set and polished in France, following strict, ethical, legal and environmental standards.

While nearly all of the collections on show at the event were absolutely fabulous, there were several groupings that really stood on their own, in order to make themselves memorable in the eyes and minds of more than just a few viewers.

For starters, Bijoux Commelin ... In the 19th Century, under Emperor Napoleon 3rd, Theodore Commelin set up a workshop in the heart of Paris. Today, Phillippe Commelin's grand-niece, Isabelle Latour, has sustained the legacy of her grand uncle, employing in the workshop, the last few master enamel craftsmen to produce the miniature jewels for which Commelin has since become well-known. In 2006, Commelin became one of the first French companies to be awarded the "Entreprise du Patrimoine Vivant" award. In 2008, Commelin received the French jewelry label, Joaillerie de France.

La Parisienne Charms/Monuments of Paris Collection. Charms in 18 carat yellow gold, featuring Tour Eiffel, stained glass window Eiffel Tower and Morris column in translucent enamel, and basset hound.

Garnazelle (meaning �little frog� - See photo at top of article) was founded in 2001 by Celine Rivet as an alternative to the more classic and traditional jewelry houses of Place Vendome. Overall, this eclectic, off-the-beat collection of sensual rings, bracelets and earrings, can easily be translated as wild and spicy, with a touch of mystique and spookiness. Belonging to the world of fairies, the �little frog� becomes the symbol for the creative repertoire and the brand logo, where an extravagant and romantic world mixes animal life and plants, all strangely connected with human life. Nearly every piece across this line portrays a decidedly fetish quality, rendered as talismans of many colors, shaped to convey opulence, attraction, lavishness, and rapture.

Exclusive pieces from the whimsical �Jardin D�Ete� collection, showcasing multi-colored sapphires, tsavorites, fire opals, et al.

La Maison Marchak makes use of a diverse range of artisan techniques, such as pate de verre or gold plating, which uses tiny, articulated chains to give jewelry a feather-soft look and feel, to create signature pr�t-a-porter and numbered, haute couture pieces. Founded in 1878 by the �Cartier of Kiev�, Joseph Marchak became one of the Russian Empire�s most recognized jewelers, supplier to the Tsar, and the undisputed rival fo Peter Faberg�. Now in its 131st year, Joseph Marchak�s grandson, Daniel Marchak, working alongside the company�s longtime, senior designer, Bertrand Degommier, continues the revival and growth of the French luxe jewelry house.

Pieces from the Fleur, Taj Mahal and Agra collections, featuring varied hues of French New-Bakelite, 18K gold, sterling silver and gold link chains, multi-sized carats and cuts of blue topaz, cabochon opals, pink and green tourmalines, brilliant-cut rubies, et al.

Sophie Reyre has been a journalist, a novelist, and most recently, a fine jeweler. Her long time fascination with the richness, allure and history of India, and her passion for the work of 20th Century innovators, the ilk of Rene Boivin, Count Fulco de Verdura and Seaman Schepps, coupled with her studies of Chinese Calligraphy and the two years which she spent at the Institut de Gemmologie in Paris, have all contributed to Reyre�s special approach to jewelry design and manufacture. Since launching her business and label in 2007, her collections continue to mix tradition and modernity, translating artifacts from India�s 17th Century Mughal rulers, into modern, precious jewels, embracing jade, turquoise, coral, onyx and other fine stones, accentuated with high gold motifs.

Composition of single, double and triple-linked rings and pendant, in combinations of white, yellow or pink 18K gold, white and black diamonds and pink sapphires

Veronique Bailly lives in Hossegor, France, a small, out of the way village, located near the sea. Bailly, who loves nature and sports (she plays golf, surfs, snowboards, and practicates Pilates), previously worked for big sports brands, such as Billabong, Rusty, Rip Curl and Nike. Inspired to take her love of and background in sports, and mix all of that into a different kind of jewelry line, she recently did just that, and began her own company. Bringing the playful spirit of the line into play for this young designer, means creating unisex jewelry with a young, hip, rock-and-roll attitude. which is meant not only to be played with, but can be easily transformed, for example, from a luxurious stack of rings into a swingy, sexy pendant.

-Adrienne Weinfeld-Berg

Art of the Collection: The Design Spirit of American Fashion Artist Audrey Schilt

On View at The Fashion Institute of Technology
Through Wednesday, January 27, 2010

Copyright � Audrey Schilt

Opening Reception Thursday, December 10, 6-8pm

(Press Release) The illustrations of Audrey Schilt, a Fashion Institute of Technology alumna who worked closely with Ralph Lauren for 22 years, are on display at FIT in an exhibition titled Art of the Collection: The Design Spirit of American Fashion Artist Audrey Schilt through January 27, 2010. Included are sketches of the pink silk Ralph Lauren gown worn by Gwyneth Paltrow at the 1998 Academy Awards, on which Schilt collaborated, as well as sketches of the white silk and organza Lauren gown worn by Emmy Rossum to the 2005 Golden Globes, which Schilt designed. These are among the approximately 125 works created by Schilt between 1986 and 2007 on view, including original concept drawings, advertising images, design silhouettes, and works in watercolor and chalk on paper.

After graduating from FIT with a degree in Illustration, Audrey Schilt started her career as a sketch artist for Halston, where she drew several of the hats for which Jacqueline Kennedy became known, including the pillbox, and Halston�s first women�s collection. From there, Schilt moved to freelance work, creating fashion ads for such clients as Bergdorf Goodman and Vanity Fair, many of which appeared in The New York Times. Schilt also returned to school to learn patternmaking and draping. She then worked as a designer for Jacque Bellini for five years, as well as on a children�s line of clothing. Hired as a concept artist at Ralph Lauren in 1986, Schilt rose during her 22-year tenure to vice president and creative director of collection for the company. Now retired from her position at Ralph Lauren, Schilt has turned her attention to other artistic endeavors and continues to work as a conceptual design consultant.

Free and open to the public, Art of the Collection: The Design Spirit of American Fashion Artist Audrey Schilt is on view through January 27, 2010 in FIT�s Fred P. Pomerantz Art and Design Center (D Building), 27th Street at Seventh Avenue.

This exhibition is co-sponsored by the college�s School of Art and Design, the Gladys Marcus Library at FIT, and the library�s Print/FX Graphics Lab. For press information, contact Cheri Fein, 212.217.4700 or press@fitnyc.edu

2009-12-08T10:20:00.009-05:00

�Crimson� Tide

Narciso Rodriquez Pre-fall 2010 Collection (All photos: WWD via Coutorture.com)

No sooner do the spring collections, unveiled back in September, begin to fade from our collective memories, the fashion flock is gearing up for upcoming big fall season. In fact, I just received an email from IMGFashionPress@IMGWorld.com on behalf of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week in New York, reminding me that the shows take place February 11th�18th in Bryant Park, and inviting me to register early online at www.mbfashionweek.com/newyork.

But before fall, there is pre-fall, (I guess you can call it the �fall� before THE FALL). The pre-seasons of course, have been getting more and more play each year and designers have been putting more emphasis on their lines, a few even staging runway shows. And from the look of things, while eternally chic and urbane black still �rules�, there have also been welcome smatterings of vibrant color, whether used as an accent or in a more �out there� manner.

Calvin Klein Pre-fall 2010 Collection

Black (with a touch of white and camel) was the undisputed message at Calvin Klein, where Francisco Costa�s brilliant sculptural cuts defined the deceivingly simple; so too at Zero + Maria Cornejo, and at Alexander Wang, both of whom have always embraced noir. But touches of yellow and red enlivened Karl Lagerfeld�s Chinoise accented pre-fall Collection, shown fittingly in Shanghai; Narciso Rodriguez punched up black, camel and gray with crimson in the form of chic pared down haberdashery inspired pieces; crimson and hot pink, in addition to neutral camel, played off black at Michael Kors, and punches of color (red of course) in addition to both whimsical and classic patterns, were the story at Zac Posen, who described his collection as �Lewis Carroll meets Paloma Picasso�).

Zac Posen Pre-fall 2010 Collection

And while there were some chic black silk faille and black lace embroidered dresses and gowns, plus a few black cashmere knits, scattered among the 49 pieces shown at Oscar de la Renta�s pre-fall show, (presented yesterday afternoon at his favorite venue, the tr�s elegant 583 Park Avenue), that was hardly the only story. Au contraire, Mr. de la Renta admitted that he was concentrating on �special� pieces, and thus, happy flashes of ruby, vermillion, rose, emerald green, and marigold made their appearance. In addition, there were tweed skirt suits, colorful Suzani embroidery, Ikat prints, rich mixes of texture and pattern, statement making embroidered coats, seemingly weightless cashmere silk embroidered cardigans, abbreviated bolero jackets, color block silk taffeta blouses, multi-colored embroidered patchwork sweaters, coats, pants, skirts, dresses, and accessories.

It was all �signature� Oscar in its overridingly feminine, folkloric, colorful Parisian �jeune fille� aesthetic, from the high heeled booties to the blown dry sleek, long straight hair, (worn half up, half down and styled by Andre Rodman for Frederick Fekkai). And it couldn�t have looked more welcome (especially considering we are in the throes of the holiday season), and a little fantasy goes a long way. The economy may still be in dour straits, but that doesn�t mean we all have to look that way.

Standouts include the textural emerald merino wool knit dress worn with a pearl grey heather cashgora embroidered coat; the canary tweed skirt and canary cloque jacket; the vermillion tweed dress with ivory wool boucle trim; the white silk chiffon embroidered gown with white cashmere silk embroidered cardigan trimmed with bleached mink; the multi-color sequin embroidered skirt suit. And then there were the embroidered patchwork pieces: the turquoise multi-color embroidered patchwork dress and vermillion cashmere embroidered cardigan; the multi color block printed silk taffeta patchwork jacket, paired with a canary silk taffeta blouse, and black denim skinny jean; and a patchwork multi color silk taffeta embroidered coat.

-Marilyn Kirschner

2009-12-04T12:37:00.004-05:00

�Closet� Cases

Although there are always loads of photographers milling around and recording the fashion scene during fashion week, it was hard not to notice the great looking and interestingly dressed woman with camera in tow (Elisa Goodkind). She approached me as I made my way into the Bryant Park Tents during New York Fashion Week back in September, and asked if she could take my picture. Though I must say, she looked familiar, I could not immediately place her�but she apparently knew who I was and introduced herself, handing me her card.

After a quick intro, she proceeded to tell me about her relatively new �baby�, the website, www.stylelikeu.com, of which she is very proud and rightly so, and I�m not just saying that because she asked me to be a part of it. Quite frankly, I think it has such an inspired premise, I�m bummed out I didn�t think of it first.

This online magazine that launched in March 2009, is the brainchild of a creative mother-daughter team (Elisa Goodkind is a professional stylist and New York fashion editor for more than 20 years, and her equally creative daughter Lily Mandelbaum, is a film student). Their ambitious mission is to offer �A deeper look into the thoughts and closets of people with inspiring personal style�, the ones who use their style as an �art form�. They will proudly tell you that the collection of individuals whom they have found, �are some of the most influential, inspiring, artistic, and talented people� they have ever met. (By the way, this duo is pretty �inspiring� as well).

Needless to say, I was flattered when Elisa asked if I would be interested in being a part of the �club� (one of the �chosen� few). And besides, how could I refuse someone so obviously passionate about what she does, so full of life, so energetic, and so curious about the world around her? Someone truly loves fashion, and �gets� the notion of individual, personal style.

The concept was especially intriguing to me since I guess you could call me a �closet case� and somewhat of a �voyeur�. (Well�a �closet� voyeur anyway, in that I love to peek into other creative peoples� closets). The site is already quite a �destination� for those in the know, and they already receive over 45,000 hits monthly. This is not surprising; I can attest to the fact that it�s definitely �addictive� and its one of the sites I regularly check out first thing in the morning, to see which new subject I will be �surprised� and delighted by.

Speaking of �surprises�, there is nothing run of the mill or predictable about www.stylelikeu.com and it�s not just another homage to the rich and famous (with big budgets for clothes and personal stylists), nor do they include typical and predictable profiles of those with impeccable social pedigrees (�yawn, yawn� - though what�s so great about it, is that those elements would not exclude someone with the �it� factor). The people selected by Elisa and Lily, who �scout� out subjects here and literally around the world (and then ask those who have been selected, to make suggestions and be on the lookout as well) are a true cross section of New York, and beyond. It�s a global and divergent group representing a completely democratic mix of ethnicities, cultures, backgrounds, occupations, socio economic stations, and includes all ages. Thus far, the youngest is a precocious 5 year old girl (Athena Stuebe�s profile will be up in early December), and the oldest is a woman in her mid 80�s: the ageless and fabulous Barbara Louis.

Elisa explained that she would need about 2 hours of my time, would come to my apartment, interview me with a video and still camera, ask questions about why I dress the way I do, where I get my inspiration from, what some of my favorite pieces are, and photograph me in about 6 of my favorite outfits (My initial reaction was: just 6? how can I pin it down to just 6? But it was actually easier than I had thought). She is quick, organized, is very flexible and easy going, and it could not have been more fun (we laughed a lot), as you can see for yourself. She even got me to �confess� that I have the same exact pair of Marc by Marc Jacobs Cuban heeled rain boots in 4 colors (yikes!).

-Marilyn Kirschner

2009-12-04T09:37:00.003-05:00

The Godfather of Fashion Websites Celebrates 15 Years Online

Cover of the original invitation to the launch of Lookonline

Lookonline.com is the longest running on-line fashion publication in the world. Before there was Style.com, Hypermode.com, FashionInternet.com, NYstyle.com, Fashionmall.com, Elle.com, hairnet.com, Hintmag.com and even Fashion.net, there was us. We have not always garnered the attention, funding or notoriety of some other of these fashion sites, but those in our industry, who have followed Lookonline's development over the years, know we helped pioneer the use of the Internet in providing real-time coverage of fashion events, regularly scheduled video reports, fashion blogs (DFR: Daily Fashion Report has been in blog format for almost 7 years and is recognized as the first fashion blog), market reports, editorial cartoons and original runway and event photography long before there were sites like Style.com or Fashionweekdaily.

Since our official launch was on December 1, 1994 as a BBS dial-up service (does anyone even remember what a BBS service is or was?), the Lookonline has been on-line "officially" for 15 years. However, we were already a BBS service by subscription in early 1993 (our first subscriber was Harper's Bazaar), and it was not until December of 1994 did we began a website (hosted under another domain name) in addition to our BBS site. Later in 1995, we discontinued our BBS service and concentrated on developing our website using our own domain name 'lookonline.com'.

For the record, our official launch was as a party/benefit called "CyberTaste" for the "Charge Against Hunger" program from American Express and Share Our Strength on December 1, 1994 (see above copy of invitation) The event was held at Sony Plaza at 550 Madison Avenue in New York. Over 850 members of the public and a small group of press (WWD did not show up) attended the opening that featured 13 chefs from top New York restaurants serving their signature dishes; a designer auction, wine tasting, desserts, and a live 20 man jazz orchestra. According to officials at Sony, it was one of the largest, if not the largest event ever held to this day at the Sony Plaza's Atrium. (Rhonda Erb put the whole event together for us). Major sponsors for the event included American Express, Food & Wine Magazine, Tourneau, Romana Sambuca, Coca Cola Bottling Company of NY, Georgette Klinger, Colorite, and Sony Plaza.

Does anyone besides our company remember the event? Fifteen years on-line is like a century in the development of the Internet. It was a struggle during the early years to gain recognition, much less respect for our site. I can still remember the days when fashion designers and publicists would look at me in disbelief, if they looked at me at all, when I talked about the importance of fashion websites. I was like the invisible man. I would be running around among them, but no one really knew or cared about fashion websites or, for that matter, even the Internet . Well, as the song says: "the times they are a changing", the Internet is now a force to be reckoned with, and fashion sites and blogs number in the many hundreds.

I want to personally thank our many contributors who, over the past 15 years, have helped our site continue to grow. First and foremost my editor-in-chief, Marilyn Kirschner, whose fashion expertise and determination has set the tone for our editorial coverage; and senior editor Bernadine Morris, who lent her name, expertise and a guiding hand. Also special mention goes to Randy Brooke, an exceptional photographer who was always there when we needed him; and Diane Clehane for providing us with first class coverage of major fashion and entertainment events. Also special thanks goes to Susan Sommers for her timely suggestions, Adrienne Weinfield-Berg and Rhonda Erb, both good friends of lookonline, whose special assignment reporting gave our editorial greater depth; Stacy Lomman, Isabelle Erb and Muriel Geny-Triffaut for their contributions, and Grace Mirabella for hosting our first three 'Master of Fashion Video Interviews'.

And finally, I want to thank my wife Deborah Brumfield for putting up with me all these years. Without her help and support the lookonline would not exist today.

-Ernest Schmatolla

2009-12-03T08:41:00.009-05:00

American Classics Reinvented For The Masses & More ...

Canvas Collection (Photos: Lands' End)

For Spring, Summer 2010, Lands� End gives a whimsical, cool, new take on its usually traditional and quiet brand of clothing and accessories for women, men, kids and home. Going under the headline of �A Beacon for What�s Real: American Classics, New Horizons�, the company, which began in 1963, and has since positioned itself as �cultivated and refined through the years�, has now shifted gears across all of its groupings. The reasoning behind the strategy, so it seems, is for the company to try to re-brand and re-market itself in today�s hyper-competitive retail marketplace, as well as make itself and its wares that much more appealing and covetable to modern shoppers with an eye on affordable, great-looking fashion and home d�cor.

Thinking about key selling points such as quality, value, style and service, the company recently told its story in New York City, at a fun, casual and quite witty, press presentation, set in an open, airy West Side loft.

A particularly interesting part of the company�s new direction is its really-feel-good, Canvas collection (Clothing and Swim) for women and men. According to the look book given out at the presentation, this part of the line is described as �Welcome to a new chapter in a storied brand � clothing that�s real and relevant for how we live today�. Apparently, all of this simply translates into for women, what looks like an attitude of vintage meets current trend; what is old is new again. Ditto for the menswear part of this grouping, which concentrates on rugged pieces, rendered as a relaxed, easy style in the language of iconic, American sportswear. The generally good-looking Swimwear part of the Canvas line, co-habits well with the clothing. Components in this grouping are �Swim Essentials� (basics in rich, dark hues and some pop prints); �Surf Shack� (easy, athletic-style pieces for performance or play); and �Heritage� (a new take on the company�s nautical roots; navy, yellow, green; polka-dots, striped prints).

Across other collections, shown separately from the Canvas line, warm-weather dressing for women focuses on a broad array of mix-and-match sportswear pieces that have their place across many different types of shoppers� closets. An additional plus to the design repertoire this season is that there are more dresses in more size ranges (are all of you size 2�s to size 18�s out there listening?) currently available in the company�s catalog, on its website and at its signature shops at Sears. Obviously Lands �End has done its homework, in terms of the kinds of trending and forecasting it has done when it comes to giving women more dressing options for spring and summer.

When swim comes into play, which of course, the category does during this time of the season, there are all kinds of shapes and silhouettes for women. Many of the swimsuits have Tummy or All-Over Control, as well as Shape Wear; which are important for larger size figures. Adornments of super stylized touches of silver hardware, vibrant color palettes, retro-glamour, prints, patterns, and the like are everywhere across this grouping. Going along with the new story in Swim, the company serves up several abundantly-shaped and fabulous beach bags, which seem just right for going to the beach and beyond.

Moving on to Men, there are lots of good-looking clothing and swimwear items, offered in a range of colors, eclectic patterns, and easy silhouettes, again, all at affordable prices. Some of the best pieces in this section are the white denim tops and bottoms; madras and camp shirts, boat shoes, driving mocs, classic volley shorts and swim trunks

Now, when it comes to the growing market share of younger girls and boys, who just have to be the most fashiony and cool in their crowd, there is something for just about everybody. For the girls, there are pretty, little sleeveless jersey dresses and skorts in sizes from 2T to 16; regular, slim and plus. Swimwear is chic, but yet still young, with embellishments of seahorse icons, oversized paisley patterns and sewn-on, big, nylon flowers, seen across tankinis, bikinis and maillots. \

For the boys, there are neat mixes of jean and cargo jackets, which totally look great with all kinds of shirts, polo�s, jeans and khaki�s, in sizes from 2T to 20, in regular, slim and husky. For beachwear, there are plenty of vintage-inspired prints and patterns in surf-like nautical color-blocks and classic, floral, cargo board shorts.

Gracious homes are not left out of the mix, especially important when it comes to the new line of sumptuous, organic pieces, in everything from bedding to towels. The company apparently understands that shoppers want and need the chance to quickly and cost-efficiently add new color into a room via home accent pieces. Voila, the best of the bunch here come across as plush, decorative pillow covers, all done up in bold patterns and prepster, bright shades.

Domestics aside, there is a truly wonderful and extremely well-priced for what it is, Adirondack Living Collection. Looking like each piece came straight out of a glossy, deluxe, consumer magazine, devoted to only the best kinds of gracious living, the comfy and cozy loveseat, coffee table, side table and club chair, look to be easily mixed and matched, and equally at home in any city, country or beach-house backyard.

The fun and casual presentation served yet another purpose to invited guests, other than touting the new collections, providing more than just a few cocktails and nibbles, and gifting everyone on the way out with a specially chosen, warm and cozy �hand-knitted� muffler. At the back of the look-book, viewers learned that Lands� End proves its corporate values of �Real People. Real Value. Real Difference� in quite a heartfelt way, by supporting local and national charities such as The Big Boston Warm-up, Big Warm-up, and The Feel Good Campaign, which encourage employees and shoppers to donate coats for the homeless, as well as donating 5,000 pounds of its signature, �FeelGood� yarn (enough to make 25,000 hats) to One Heart Foundation�s Warming Families, a nationwide knitting charity. Quite a nice touch, indeed.

-Adrienne Weinfeld-Berg

2009-12-02T13:00:00.009-05:00

'Night & Day' Exhibition at The Museum of FIT
December 3, 2009 � May 11, 2010

Left Christian Dior NY afternoon dress circa 1952 Right: Christian Dior evening dress spring/summer 1956 (Photography: MFIT)

The Museum at FIT presents Night & Day, a new exhibition examining how the rules that dictate appropriate dress for women have changed over the past 250 years. Featured will be more than 100 day and evening garments, textiles, and accessories that illustrate the conventions during various eras for proper attire for a particular time of day, activity, or occasion. Night & Day will reveal the evolution of the rules that govern fashion, including periods when strictly observed etiquette was the norm and other times when more flexible guidelines prevailed.

Left: Elizabeth Arden trouser ensemble circa 1946 Right: Charles James dinner suit circa 1947

Night & Day, presented in the Fashion and Textile History Gallery, is organized by Molly Sorkin, along with Colleen Hill, Harumi Hotta, Lynn Weidner, and Tiffany Webber. The exhibition will be on view from December 3, 2009, through May 11, 2010.

The Fashion and Textile History Gallery presents biannual exhibitions examining aspects of the past 250 years of fashion. Exhibitions are curated exclusively from The Museum at FIT�s extensive collection. Support for this exhibition has been provided by the Couture Council.

For more information:

Cheri Fein
Executive Director of Public and Media Relations
(212) 217.4700; press@fitnyc.edu

2009-11-30T09:40:00.009-05:00

Water Is The New Expression Of Luxury

(Photos courtesy Swarovski)

For Spring/Summer 2010, Swarovski takes an "Out Of The Blue" approach to jewelry and accessories, the majority of which are whimsical and opulent at the very same time. As Nathalie Colin, the company's Creative Director explains, "water is the new expression of luxury in a world where increasing efforts are being made to protect the environment. I wanted to explore this theme with this important seasonal collection, the second part of the 'Beyond Nature' trilogy." Keeping to this candid observation, the current collection focuses on bio diversity and marine life, via aquatic-themed pieces, featuring a myriad of multi-colorful crystals, in tandem with new materials, emphasizing changing reflections of the water's surface.

The "Beauty Drops" grouping consists of sensual and fluid pieces, such as the "Liquid" necklace, featuring a long chain, highlighted by droplets of crystal, accentuated with a large, cut crystal in a flowing, rhodium-plated casing. "Another piece in this grouping, aptly dubbed "Levity", brings to mind a very sexy, jellyfish, all done up in coral crystals, set against a long chain, playing in the ocean's waves. Pieces within "Marina Blue" take inspiration from the beauty of life enveloping the coral reef, by way of the kinds of blues and reds generally associated with shells and corals. Long, languid necklaces, with aqautic names, such as "Lagoon", and larger-than-life, "Ginseng", "Opaline", "Lazy", "Louise" and "Look" cocktail rings, many showing the company's exclusive Pointiage (TM) technique, all mix and match together, in eclectic and different combinations of beautiful crystal color palettes and silhouettes, totally reminiscent of exclusive cruise holidays, right along with ocean life on top of and under the deep blue sea.

The "Sea, Light and Fun" assortment gives way to a fabulous sea filled up with more than just a few playful and eclectic creatures. Proving that more is more and layering, layering, layering is good, better and just plain best, there are playful "Elvis" and "Erika" pendants, rendered in the Pointiage (TM) setting, and playing up the idea of a sweet crab and a gracious water droplet, covered all over in coral or blue crystals. The "Charmed" bracelet, which seems to bring about a "good luck" aura in its own right, features abundant charms, with names such as "Crab", Octopus" and "Red Fish".

Moving along with the water story so prevalent this season is the "Lychee" fish pendant, rendered in both large and small sizes, with clear, crystal huge eyes, a small, mobile tail, rounded form and asymmetric fins. The quirky fish also appears in a matching ring and bracelet. Honing in on the idea of the riches of underwater treasure, there are abundant groupings, such as "Nirvana Flash" (ring) and "Laser" (necklaces, bracelets and hoop earrings), each of which incorporates light and sparkly crystal hues, such as red, blue, yellow, white and black, alongside bountiful, summertime fruit shades, such as lemon, yellow, raspberry pink, and clear crystals.

Moving into another kind of fantasy realm is the �Alice In Wonderland� Disney Collection 2010, showcasing an array of rings, earrings, bracelets, fanciful necklaces and charm pendants. In this grouping, the �Flower Garden� wrapped necklace is utterly cool for every �Alice�; ditto, the �Red Queen�, �Mad Hatter� and super-cool, �Cheshire Cat� pieces.

Swarovski obviously loves its jewelry, but there is another kind of good accessory story going on here, as well. Addressing this genre, there are sparkly, little bags and wristlet pouches with names such as �Glam�, �Las Vegas�, �Glitz�, Gala�, �Power�, �Lolita� and �Libertine�, along with lots of nifty accessories, such as �Happy� and �Lucky� key rings, mobile phone items, bag charms, coin Purses, billfolds and wallets.

Summing up the viewpoint of the new collection across the board, it is a safe bet to say that the company, which nearly always manages to step outside of the box with each new collection, certainly manages to stay true to its current design message of nautical, water and lots of sophistication and whimsicality.

Just about everywhere across the current grouping, the pieces manage to stand on their own, and cohabit obviously well for their individual stories; i.e., living the luxury life, youth, spirit, wellbeing, exoticism and light-heartedness. Or, to put it another way, en francais, "voici � beaucoup de joie de vivre et les belles filles dans l'�galement belle bijouterie et les beaux accessoires cette saison".

- Adrienne Weinfeld-Berg

2009-11-27T16:36:00.006-05:00

Better Bets

Holiday Shopping Guide

Rhonda Erb's popular shopping column begins a new season with her pick of the newest and most interesting electronics that would make perfect gifts for the holidays.

Click here for her latest column.

2009-11-23T09:51:00.005-05:00

Victoria's Secret Show

Our photographer Randy Brooke was once again shooting the Victoria's Secret show. He sent us over a number of great looking photos from last Thursday's show for our readers to enjoy. Go to photo library to view the images.

2009-11-16T08:31:00.003-05:00

FGI�s �Consumer� Report

Fashion Group International held its spring summer 2010 ready-to-wear collections trend overview this past Friday, November 13th. For those who attended, like me, the date proved to be anything but �unlucky�. The event was not only informative, but unabashedly consumer oriented, and consumer friendly, and indeed, the consumer seemed to be on everyone�s minds (understandably so; since he/she holds the purse strings, right?)

First off, FGI President Margaret Hayes made her brief welcoming comments, adding her upbeat observation, �The good news is the economic recovery.� Then, as usual, Marylou Luther, FGI�s Creative Director, did a fantastic and exhaustive editing job; putting it all together and narrating the wonderful audio visual slide report, which details the most important trends for the upcoming season, as seen on the recent runways; the best of the best in every category (ready-to-wear, accessories, and beauty). She did it as only she can, with humor, wit, puns aplenty, and even whittled the trends down to �140 characters or less�: Squeeze/ease; Thighs /knees; Goth/froth; Drape/shape; Reality/romance; Transparent/apparent; Undies outed/utility touted.

But perhaps the most relevant �trend� right now, according to Ms. Luther, is the way in which the clothes are �communicated�, and the fact that designers are becoming �more connected with consumers: some directly, some indirectly via in store videos.�

Exemplifying this �direct� route, was Alexander McQueen, who stated that this season, he wanted to give consumers an �unfiltered view of what goes on at a fashion show� (which is usually reserved for members of the press, retailers, and celebrities). And thanks to Internet technology (for spring 2010 he collaborated with Nick Knight of SHOWstudio.com), this became a reality, as �29,000 hits in one second crashed the online show briefly�.

The emphasis on engaging and attracting the customer, continued with the lively panel discussion which followed the noon time presentation. Comprised of committee members who are among the most highly regarded professionals in their fields, it�s a balanced mix of retailers and members of the press and this time they were:

LINDA FARGO, SVP, Bergdorf Goodman
IKRAM GOLDMAN, IKRAM Chicago
JANE LARKWORTHY, Beauty Editor, W
LINCOLN MOORE, V.P. & DMM Handbags/Accessories, Saks Fifth Avenue
CANDY PRATTS PRICE, Executive Fashion Director, Style.com

The guest moderator was Donna Karan, who was introduced by Ms. Luther, referring to her as �fashion�s favorite agent of change�. ML also pointed out that the award winning multi tasker, who has received countless accolades and honors, has the distinct honor of being the first American designer to have been given the Fashion Group International�s Super Star Award during the organization�s annual Night of Stars back in 2003.

Unsurprisingly, the outspoken designer wasted no time in getting to, what for her, is the most important and pressing issue facing the fashion business; in two words: The Consumer. As she put it, �Fashion changes so quickly, but where is the customer in this?� �As a designer, it�s all about inspiration, but the consumer is the end result. How do we communicate to the consumer�? And so, the groundwork was set for the panel discussion which followed.

When Ms. Karan asked Linda Fargo, �How would you like to be the conduit for change�?
Ms. Fargo answered: �I�ll commit to join Donna in her campaign for �Buy now, wear now�. That�s what needs to be re-evaluated. Selling clothes closer to when she�s going to wear it�.

Donna was thrilled, saying it was �the best birthday present anyone can receive�, and �it�s not even my birthday!� (Donna, among others, has long been outspoken in her belief that the consumer is �confused� thanks in large part to all the information out there, in addition to all the seasons being �thrown� at her at one time. She also believes strongly that the clothes on the selling floor, should be in tune with the season. In the same way it�s healthy to eat �fresh� food in season, it is healthy and a good idea to buy clothes �in season�.)

DK then spoke with Jane Larkworthy about the idea of beauty, (which she admitted is an ambiguous notion for her). �Is it inner beauty or outer beauty we�re talking about?� she asked. And as for the runway beauty trends, how are they relevant for the consumer?

JL said she was pleased to see �so many gorgeous looks�. �There was a lot of thought and effort put into the beauty looks this season�. But Donna quipped: �Where is the �us� in all of this?� �How do we talk to the customer who�s not a beauty or a model?� JL replied that she sees the runway beauty trends as being a point of inspiration for the �average� woman out there. She may not be able to or want to follow the trends literally, but she can be �inspired� in some way.

Then Donna asked Lincoln Moore: �Lincoln. How would you like us as an industry to be getting together? What is your wish list for the holidays?�
LM: �We need to retrain our staff and talk to the customer about the value of the product, not just the brand. Developing a personal relationship with consumer is the key thing. It�s about more intimate affairs. The relationship between the customer and the designer. Having a vendor relationship is imperative.�

When it came time to �interview� Ikram Goldman, (the revered Chicago retailer who is all but single handedly responsible for collaborating with and dressing the First Lady) Donna could not contain her adoration.
DK: �You�re probably one of THE most influential people in fashion. Thank you! I applaud you for taking a huge challenge and working with Michelle Obama. What is it like to be that retailer?�
IG: �Success is based on the service we give. The sales and special sales (offered elsewhere) are hard on small stores like ours. I try to ignore what happens with other stores. I encourage our employees to love and sell what they believe. It�s important to educate the sales staff to educate the consumer. They have to make the consumer understand that it�s okay to spend a lot of money now, on quality items that will last forever. It�s not buy now, wear now, but buy now, where forever.�

Last up was Candy Pratts Price, who Donna has known for years, dating back to the time she worked her visual wonders at Bloomingdales.
DK: �Candy has love and a passion for fashion (Let�s face it. We wouldn�t be here if we weren�t all obsessive, compulsive.�) Then, she asked her: �How do we instill desire and get the customer to shop?�
CPP: �We have to pay attention to the customer. We need to entertain the customer, as Marvin Traub did.�

At this point, other retailers on the panel chimed in about how to best �entertain� or engage the customer. Ikram Goldman admitted that she tries to give her sales staff �surprises.� �I ask designers to make special pieces for me.� (The notion of �surprise� would surface again as you will see)

As for all the information available to everyone out there, (thanks to the internet), Donna asked: �Is too much information to much information? Is it too much too soon?�
CPP: �I don�t think it�s a negative. A learned customer is a good customer� (This immediately brought to mind the advertising slogan for Syms, �An educated consumer is our best customer.�)
DK: �The Internet is our communication tool right now. But for me, it�s a double edged sword�. But then she re-phrased it, saying �It�s not the information but the timing of the information (that�s problematic)�.

At this point, Donna brought up the endless seasons, the hype that goes along with the large fashion shows, and the markdowns. She admitted, �Resort, without all the hype, is one our most successful sell through seasons�, whereas �the buy on spring is so small.�

This prompted Linda Fargo to immediately exclaim: �Donna, we LOVE all our pre-collections!�

Without skipping a beat, Donna answered: �What if �pre�, without all the hype, hullaballoo, and all the markdowns, WAS the collections?�

At the end, Donna asked the audience if they had any questions or comments. InStyle�s Hal Rubenstein was one of several who wanted to make his feelings known. �The most important way to �seduce� the customer and get her (or him) excited about shopping, is to offer an �element of surprise�. �You have to keep surprising the customer. Take your passion and your intelligence, and seduce the customer.�

-Marilyn Kirschner

2009-11-12T08:35:00.005-05:00

Bonjour a toi, Mademoiselle Ann Taylor

(Photos courtesy Anne Taylor)

In case any of you out there in fashion-land have been living under a rock or visiting a far-off Galaxy, you have heard about and most probably have seen the big, bold change-about in the look and feel of Ann Taylor�s collections (clothing and accessories, of course). No more is this change more apparent than across the Spring 2010 clothing and accessory groupings, the majority of which are clearly styled and priced for the masses across the country, many of whom love to shop at Ann Taylor�s stores, and see and buy pieces that can work across the wardrobe in a laissez-faire, French way. Keeping to this point, everything across the clothing and accessories groupings is quite fresh and pert, with a definitive, European-themed, BCBG aura, in feeling. The point is proved in a vive la diff�rence way, via a trendy shift in style, shape, silhouette, color and the like. Think about words such as �through a rose tinted lens� en francais, if you please, and you get the picture.

The majority of the clothing, per se, is very pretty, soft and fluid, with an all-about-the-girl story, from day right into evening. Blurring the lines between edgy and classic, an abundance of separates and dresses run wild. There are deconstructed and shapely trenches, toppers and short coats, with all kinds of easy-going, generally affordable pieces for sportive, work and glam occasions.

Across the collection of wearable clothing that appears to look as super on a size 12 or 14 as on a size 2 or 4, there are accouterments of choices, such as floral-inspired palettes, watercolor-infused prints and patterns, the majority showing an eye for drape and detail that looks to come straight from the most haute couture, designer runway. Speaking of a designer runway, there are the sensuous, flowing gowns, most notably in blackest black; some in white and ivory - the black creations look best - with lots and lots of fine details. European in feeling, and perfect for any big-time celebrity in the house, these special-event pieces could certainly have their moment on the most lavish Red Carpet in New York, Hollywood and anywhere in between.

A favorite Ann Taylor moment for this editor is the vintage-like, Riviera grouping, which brings to the eye and mind a sea of Oceanic blues, dotted with crisp memories of black and white; picturesque shores of beautiful Monaco, Cannes and St. Tropez, as they were in their heyday, circa 1920. Across this grouping, the silk fringe jacket, ribbed tank, tropical wool signature pant and skinny belt express the mood, along with the uptown pleated dress and embellished grosgrain belt; wavy petals cardigan; darling dot tiered dress and reverse bow jacket, teamed with silk Habotai hazy dot top, pencil skirt and skinny belt.

Moving on to the new crop of accessories, which are presented under the umbrella of �Covetables�, the r�aison d�etre for these items, according to the Ann Taylor catalog, is: �little things we simply can�t live without. Beautiful, opulent, sumptuous, sparkly, couture-inspired pieces that transform an outfit from ordinary to extraordinary.�

OK, some of this may be a bit heady and over-the-top, but the jewelry really is great, and in some cases, definitely outstanding and desirable, especially when tossed on this way and that; mixed up and layered one over the other in short and long variants. Favorites here are huge sunburst necklaces, pyramid and pave disc necklaces and pearls over pearls over pearls with an authentic look of that well-known and highly desirable, double-logo, French designer�s antique pieces, Another cool thing about the jewelry is that the highest price point for any piece is a mere $198. Talk about investment dressing on a shoestring.

Adding on to the big fashion at a price message are skinny ruffled and metallic sheer luxe scarves and shawls; lots of couture-inspired shoes, ranging from sexy, high heels to perky, ballet flats; a myriad of buttery, textured totes, clutches and big handbags, and last but not least in any good collection, skinny belts in black leather, black and granite patent, and exotic ash.

- Adrienne Weinfeld Berg

2009-11-05T08:58:00.018-05:00

The Museum at FIT�s Best �Dressed� List

Ralph Rucci, Infanta gown in graphite gray duchesse satin, Fall 2004. Photograph: William Palmer.

The art of dressmaking (specifically, the mix of �technical ingenuity and artistic excellence� with a focus on craftsmanship, construction, and the use of techniques �only Americans could have come up with�), is at the heart of American Beauty: Aesthetics and Innovation in Fashion, the Museum of the Fashion Institute of Technology�s latest exhibition which opens to the public on November 6th 2009 - April 10, 2010, www.fitnyc.edu. Curated by Patricia Mears, the deputy director of the Museum at FIT, it also has the distinction of being the first one of its kind

Ms. Mears likes to refer to herself as a �throwback� in that she is admittedly most interested in and drawn to the �craft� and �connoisseurship� of fashion. That was very apparent as we chatted, while taking a walk around the gallery, which was given an effective, �makeover� by Charles B. Froom, whom we interviewed in our Master of Fashion Series (�We wanted a very clean gallery, a mid century aesthetic�because the exhibit is all about construction�, Ms. Mears said).

From left: Claire McCardell, Jessie Franklin Turner
& Valentina

The approximately 75 outfits on display (�this is not a retrospective� she said), culled from 25 American fashion designers (including the Mulleavy sisters of Rodarte, Adrian, Bonnie Cashin, Costello Tagliapietra, Maria Cornejo, James Galanos, Halston, Elizabeth Hawes, Charles James, Charles Kleibacker, Claire McCardell, Norman Norell, Rick Owens, Ralph Rucci, Isabel Toledo, Pauline Trig�re, Valentina, Yeohlee, and Jean Yu), represent a broad spectrum of fashion, are quite varied, and date from the 1930�s to the present (the oldest is a dress by Jessie Franklin Turner from the 1930�s and the most recent is a trio of Rick Owens furs from spring 2010). And because the �beauties� selected were displayed without regards to a timeline (different decades mixed together), it made a strong case for timeless fashion, and was further proof that brilliant, well thought out design always looks modern and does not have an expiration date.

Left: design by Isabel Toledo; Right: Charles James

In fact, in many cases, without looking at the name of the designer, or the date, it was hard to tell which was the older piece, and which was the more current. This was exemplified by the following: a Charles James taupe silk crepe dress from 1951, displayed next to an Isabel Toledo dress from fall 2005; a Chado Ralph Rucci infanta from fall 2004 which was besides a Charles James gown from 1953; a Chado Ralph Rucci cream hand knotted silk jersey gown from spring 2003 which was next to a Galanos gray silk jersey from 1970; a Narciso Rodriguez ivory coat from 2006, which was right near a Pauline Trigere cream wool coat from 1969; and Yeohlee�s black and white silk �Eye of Shiva� skirt from spring 1997, displayed next to Pauline Trigere�s plaid cape and dress, 1977, and the designer�s graphically patterned coat and dress, 1954.

In addition to the featured items being connected to one another by virtue of the fact that they have been �created by designers who utilized the craft of dressmaking as the point of departure to create beautiful, wearable objects," they also have a certain �primitive, elemental quality� in common.

Center: Yeohlee striped skirt; Right: Trigere plaid; Left: Elizabeth Hawes

When I asked the curator if she had a favorite item, a favorite part of the exhibition, or if anything in particular stood out, she immediately brought up the name Pauline Trigere. She said she knew how great a designer Mrs. Trigere was, but only began to fully appreciate the workmanship and meticulous craft that went into her designs upon closer examination of her garments (she specifically singled out the way she brought dressmaking techniques to her coats, cutting them on the bias). When I mentioned that the innovative designs of Yeohlee, (a personal favorite of mine), really stood out, Patricia agreed. She also brought up the name Halston (another designer who had several outfits on display), and motioned over to the long red �American Beauty Rose Gown� made entirely of circles (16 to be exact). When I asked Ms. Mears if she named the exhibit after this dress, she said, no�coincidentally, the name had already been chosen. She also made mention of the talented Nicolas Caito, who creates the muslin runway samples for Francisco Costa for Calvin Klein, as well as the production models for leading young designers like Proenza Schouler and Thakoon.

The very modest Ms. Mears told me, �This is not a perfect show, but hopefully, it�s a step in the right direction, and the beginning of a dialogue�. (Actually, I beg to disagree: I thought it was pretty perfect). Always informative and knowledgeable, one of the most interesting points she made, is that �You have to be able to design and produce the garment in proximity together. You can�t disenfranchise. Someone who sketches the design or leaves it to an assistant, and then ships it off to be mass produced someplace else, is not making a garment with integrity�.

By the way, the inanimate dress forms on display in the downstairs exhibit, were not the only things that could be considered as �best dressed�. Many of the guests who attended the Opening party, looked pretty good themselves, including the museum�s Dr. Joyce Brown, Dr. Valerie Steele, and Patricia Mears, the Couture Council�s Yaz Hernandez, and some of the designers whose fashions were featured in the exhibition (Yeohlee, Narciso Rodriguez, Francisco Costa, the duo behind Costello Tagliapietra, Ronaldus Shamask, and Charles Kleibacker).

-Marilyn Kirschner

2009-11-05T07:50:00.006-05:00

Something To BRAG About: BRAG 39th Annual Scholarship & Awards Gala

The Black Retail Action Group (BRAG) recently held its 39th Annual Scholarship & Awards Dinner Gala. The event took place at Cipriani�s Wall Street location in Lower Manhattan. BRAG is a not-for-profit, professional organization dedicated to empowering African-Americans in pursuit of careers in retail and related industries. Their programs include scholarships, college chapters, internships, and executive development workshops.

Magic Johnson receiving award

This year�s gala was attended by retail industry executives, celebrities, members of the press, and students from schools served by the BRAG organization. The evening began with a cocktail reception, during which time guests had the opportunity to peruse the silent auction, prior to taking their seats for dinner.

The Award Winners

The first speaker for the evening was BRAG President Gary L. Lampley, who spoke about the significance of the event�s theme: the power of change. He refered to the current transformation of the global fashion industry and encouraged viewing it as a catalyst for positive change with regard to diversity and inclusion.

Actress Malinda Williams served as the gala�s Mistress of Ceremonies and presented the awards to each of the BRAG honorees. They included:

Colin and Latisha Daring, Co-Founders of the Brooklyn Boutique, Pieces Incorporated. Their advice:" never lose sight of your passion".

Best Buy CEO Brian Dunn, who was unable to attend but was represented by Best Buy�s John Thompson. He commented that �There is no greater civil right than the right to education.�

Richard Dent III, Senior Vice President, Chief Operating Officer, & Co-Leader of Victoria's Secret Pink. Dent acknowledged the fact that, �God won�t care how many panties and hoodies I�ve sold, but who I have helped.�

Earvin �Magic� Johnson, Chairman and CEO, Magic Johnson Enterprises, who attributed his success to knowing his customers.� The former NBA athlete raised $10,000 for BRAG in approximately ten minutes with an impromptu live auction of his LA Lakers court-side seats.

Shawn R. Outler, Group Vice President, Multicultural Merchandising and Vendor Development, Macy�s Inc. She explained that she learned about strategy from her sisters, �because when you have four girls in the house and one bathroom, you�ve got to have a strategy.�

Stephen I. Sadove, Chairman and CEO, Saks Inc., who declared that, �Department store retailing isn�t dead, department store retailing is waiting for innovation and that is what is going to drive the growth of our company.�

Constance White, Fashion Expert and Style Director, eBay. White remarked that she was lucky enough to get a break when she needed one and encouraged those in a position to help others in a similar fashion, to do so.

At the conclusion of the presentation, guests were invited to enjoy after dinner dancing. As they left the venue, each was the recipient of a bag containing gifts from Lord & Taylor, Victoria�s Secret, The Children�s Place, and others.

Rhonda Erb

2009-11-02T12:48:00.003-05:00

East Meets West: Blanc de Chine Spring/Summer 2010

It is a testament to the enduring popularity of luxury brand Blanc de Chine that loyal admirers braved one of the rainiest nights of the season to attend their Spring 2010 Runway Presentation. The much anticipated event took place in their ultra-chic New York store, located on Fifth Avenue. Guests had an opportunity to unwind prior to the show at a cocktail reception held on the boutique�s first floor. Just before 7:30 event producer Patty Hughes guided everyone up the grand staircase to take their seats for the runway show.

With Real Housewives star Alex McCord and her husband Simon seated front and center, the show began with sheer black ensembles for women that conveyed an air of graceful sophistication, in keeping with the theme of the collection: �The Refinement of Ming Elegance.� These looks were free from any ornamental details except for the occasional pleat or tie belt.

The classic Ming Dynasty styling continued with mandarin collared jackets for men in neutral tones of blue, black, tan or gray. These were shown with white, round neck, cotton button down shirts and simple black, Zurrer pants.

There was more variation in the women�s collection with dynamic looks featuring halter tops, harem pants, and even a sequin jump suit. These pieces stood out in bright shades of purple, blue, or silver.

Two of the most interesting designs were the black Qi Pao gown and the short black dress with sheer sleeves. Each had a detachable zippered bottom to allow the wearer to creatively mix and match tops and bottoms.

At the conclusion of the show, guests made their way downstairs and each was given a black Blanc de Chine gift bag as they exited the store into the cold, rainy night.

-Rhonda Erb

2009-10-28T14:05:00.009-04:00

Mr. �Clean�

I can�t boast that my local dry cleaner is �one of the most recognized and respected cleaning and restoration companies in the world�, or the �finest custom couture cleaner in the world�, responsible for preparing and maintaining Melania�s Christian Dior Haute Couture wedding gown prior to her high profile wedding to Donald Trump in Palm Beach. I can�t brag that they clean and routinely maintain the gold silk upholstered upholstery in Donald Trump�s Boeing 727; restore and preserve �irreplaceable vintage Chanel creations� from the 20�s and 30�s, (and as such, were responsible for the success of the 2004 Chanel exhibit at the Metropolitan Museum of Art�s Costume Institute in 2004), or that they cleaned and restored some of the iconic fashions featured in the Costume Institute�s AngloMania exhibit. And I certainly can�t boast that my local dry cleaner is routinely written up in glossy fashion magazines or that its windows could easily rival that of the best stores and boutiques in town.

However, if you happen to live in close proximity to 1255 Second Avenue, between 65th and 66thh streets, you might be able to make that claim, because you are just around the corner from the famed Madame Paulette, a dry cleaning establishment like no other: so high end, so luxurious, and so out of the ordinary (thanks to the obsession, passion, vision, and hard work of third generation Owner and President, 43 year old John Mahdessian, who turned down a high profile Wall Street job in order to take the helm), it is called the Madame Paulette Organization and it gives new meaning to being �taken to the cleaners�. And it has admittedly come a long way from its beginnings (it was founded in 1958 by John�s great uncle Andy, and named for his wife who had worked as a French seamstress).

This past summer, in celebration of their 50th year in business, Mr. Mahdessian threw a three night celebration at the company's newly renovated flagship (it takes up half a city block,) and it was attended by many of the city�s biggest movers and shakers. It was also the perfect 'excuse' to show off the just completed $500,000�face lift� which helps set it apart from �similar� establishments. First, there�s the main foyer, covered in black marble with custom made brass fixtures which bear the Madame Paulette logo. Then there are the dressing rooms that offer an array of different lighting, not to mention a high tech �black light setting� which actually pinpoints invisible blemishes. Last but not least, there are the windows, which are filled with a seasonal, changing assortment of fabulous frocks. A few months ago, it was some of the �most prized� vintage pieces that have been restored by Madame Paulette, including treasures by Yves Saint Laurent, Ossie Clark, Givenchy, Paul Poiret, and Fortuny. Most recently, the offerings include the designs of Maggie Norris, J. Mendel, Pilar Rossi, Marchesa, Cho Cheng, Emanuel Ungaro, and Angel Sanchez. By the way, awhile back, it was reported that Eva Longoria eyed an Angel Sanchez creation in the window that she �had to have� for a red carpet event, and before you could say, �dry cleaner�, it was shipped out to La-La Land.

To find out more about the extensive and global services the company provides (even if you�re not the Metropolitan Museum of Art, Eva Longoria, Anna Wintour, Sting, Donald Trump, Melania Trump, or Barbara Walters, who sang their praises for being able to remove red wine from a prized black and white sequined Armani jacket, after being repeatedly told it would never come out) click on to http://www.madamepaulette.com/, or call 212 838 6827.

By the way, I found myself seated next to Mr. Mahdessian at the recent Fashion Group International's 'Night of Stars' Gala at the Wall Street Cipriani. It couldn�t have been more perfect timing, since I was about to put a forkful of cold lobster dripping with dressing, into my mouth, and I was just thinking about the possible stains that would ensue. As I looked to my right, John was sitting there, and he had his convenient �Madame Paulette Professional Stain Removal Kit� at the ready, which is just the thing for getting out seemingly impossible stains from red wine, butter sauce, blood, or anything else for that matter. This is perfect to keep in mind since the holidays, filled with food and wine, are fast approaching.

Just a reminder, if you happen to meet John Mahdessian at some point, please, don�t call him a �dry cleaner� to his face, because he might just punch you in the face. When he was profiled by The New York Observer, ('The Sultan of Stains', June 9, 2009), he told writer Spencer Morgan, "That's a fuckin' insult". That's like calling a world-renowned surgeon a doctor."

-Marilyn Kirschner

2009-10-23T07:52:00.017-04:00

�Have I got a �Story� for you!�

The venue (All photos: Randy Brooke)

Last evening was Fashion Group International�s annual Night of Stars Gala, which was held, for the second year in a row, at Cipriani Wall Street. As FGI President Margaret Hayes recounted, this event was a rather low keyed affair when it started out 26 years ago. It was a far more intimate gathering, attended by a correspondingly small, intimate group of fashion insiders, and for many years it was held in a small elegant room at the Pierre Hotel. Boy, how things have changed. Without doubt, each year, the super star quotient seems to be upped a bit more (�stars� not only from the world of fashion, beauty, etc., but from every area of the entertainment industry including Academy Award winners) and this time, it was positively �ablaze� in the star power of such musical legends as Jon Bon Jovi, Michael Stipe, Mary J. Blige, and Gwen Stefani, who served as presenters. But while a hip, plugged in, rock musical theme was hard to ignore, the title this year, and the umbrella which linked the 11 �stellar honorees whose generous spirit and creativity have made a significant impact on design and culture� (in the words of Margaret Hayes), was �The Storytellers�.

Simon Doonan

And how fitting that once again, Simon Doonan, irreverent �host with the most� outrageous, politically incorrect, ad libbed quips and comments, and story teller extraordinaire, should serve as host for the festivities. And boy oh boy, did Simon have a story to tell! During cocktail hour, I asked if he had a good story planned; he said, �Yes, and you�d better laugh�. And laugh I did, as did most in the 550 strong who filled the grand and stately venue. He started out by saying �I�m not quite sure what Margaret was smoking when she came up with the idea of �storytellers�, telling Margaret, �I have my own �story� to tell. And it�s not very pretty�. But quite frankly, by the time he was through, he had me wondering what he was �smoking�! While it was impossible for me to write it all down, I will say that what followed was a very detailed and fantastical story linking each and every one of the evening�s honorees in an utterly absurd way, as only Simon could have possibly pulled off.

Lookonline's Marilyn Kirschner

Some of the highlights of the evening:

Gwen Stefani taking the stage and admitting �I hate doing this�.this hurts me� (prior to her introduction of Catherine Walsh)

Iman observing that Michael Kors stands for relaxed luxury; �when I think of glamorous people who jet set around the world, I think of Michael�. �This man is a story teller on the runway, and he uses cashmere, silk jersey, etc., to tell his story�.

Michael Kors: �You�re only as good as the people you surround yourself with.�

Mary J. Blige: �It�s all about Frida�s giving�her generous heart� (in reference to Gucci's Frida Giannini)

Jon Bon Jovi crediting his pal Kenneth Cole with having �chutzpah� when he began selling shoes in 1982 (so much so that he wound up selling 40,000 pair in two days); �He always thought out of the box�the shoe box in his case�. �Kenneth always takes a position and makes a stand�he�s fearless and at the forefront �It�s great to be known for your shoes, but it�s better to be appreciated for your soul.� (This play on words was very much in keeping with Kenneth Cole's love of puns)

Victoire de Castellane: �I want to thank the women who wear my jewelry and the men who buy it�. By the way, what was this celebrated jewelry designer wearing? No, it was not a big necklace, which might be the trend du jour, but two amazing rings, one very pronounced bracelet, and a black hair band that resembled something a Playboy Bunny might have worn serving cocktails decades ago.

Hamish Bowles: �Oscar is the most unruffled designer we have�

Grace Coddington: �Oscar, you�re totally awesome!� (Her comments took the prize as the shortest of the night)

Oscar de la Renta: �It�s amazing to be able to do for so many years, what I love to do most- this is an extraordinary industry� (The dapper and ageless designer was visibly moved by the award)

THE AWARDS:

SUPERSTAR AWARD: Oscar de la Renta Presenter: Grace Coddington, Hamish Bowles

FASHION:

Frida Giannini / Presenter: Mary J. Blige and James Franco

Stephen Jones / Presenter: Dita Von Teese

Michael Kors/ Presenter: Iman

Victoire de Castellane / Presenter: Dennis Friedman

BEAUTY: Catherine Walsh / Presenter: Gwen Stefani

THE 2009 LORD & TAYLOR FASHION ORACLE AWARD:

Bravo Accepted by Andy Cohen and Frances Berwick/ Presenter: Glenda Bailey

ARCHITECTURE: Clodagh / Presenter: Fern Mallis

SUSTAINABILITY AWARD: Paula Wallace for SCAD Presenter: Andre Leon Talley

CORPORATE LEADERSHIP AWARD: Renzo Ross/Diesel Presenter: Michael Stipe

HUMANITARIAN AWARD: Kenneth Cole Presenter: Jon Bon Jovi

-Marilyn Kirschner

�All in the Family�

It�s been widely observed that CFDA president Diane von Furstenberg has been �aggressive� in her desire to increase the number of new members being admitted to the organization. While in the past, it was 15 to 18 new members added annually, this year, that �magic� number is 31:

Chris Benz, CHRIS BENZ
Kevin Carrigan, CK CALVIN KLEIN
Susie Cho, INHABIT
Lyn Devon, LYN DEVON
Erin Fetherston, ERIN FETHERSTON
Tim Hamilton, TIM HAMILTON
Christina and Swaim Hutson, HUTSON
Alejandro Ingelmo, ALEJANDRO INGELMO
Christopher and Nicholas Kunz, NICHOLAS K
Marcella and Johan Lindeberg, PARIS 68, J. LINDEBERG, WILLIAM RAST
Deborah Lloyd, KATE SPADE
Jenna Lyons, J.CREW
Deborah Marquit, DEBORAH MARQUIT
Stefan Miljanic, GILDED AGE
Irene Neuwirth, IRENE NEUWIRTH
Ashley and Mary-Kate Olsen, ELIZABETH & JAMES, THE ROW
John Patrick, ORGANIC
Maria Pinto, MARIA PINTO
Jill Platner, JILL PLATNER
Lorraine Schwartz, LORRAINE SCHWARTZ
Michael Smaldone, TALBOTS
Simon Spurr, SPURR
Koi Suwannagate, KOI SUWANNAGATE
Albertus Swanepoel, ALBERTUS SWANEPOEL
Daiki Suzuki, ENGIENEERED GARMENTS
Alexander Wang, ALEXANDER WANG
Jason Wu, JASON WU

Although these names were announced back in July, the formal celebration did not take place until this past Wednesday. Instead of honoring the inductees at the not so �humble� abode of one of its celebrated members (Vera Wang�s fabulous Park Avenue apartment, Reed Krakoff�s amazing east side townhouse, or Elie Tahari�s sprawling Soho loft for example), this year, the festivities took place in the Grill Room of the storied Four Seasons Restaurant. Actually, it was a �two for one�, since the cocktail soiree also marked the CFDA�s 50th anniversary. By the way, it wasn�t lost on me that the just the name, Four Seasons, made it more than appropriate for a fete involving fashion designers, who seem to endlessly churn out 4 seasons worth of clothing (though on second thought, these days, it�s more like �endless� seasons, than just 4 seasons).

In addition to Diane�s obvious zest for adding new names to the fold, there�s the familial aspect to it all; she�s been known to lovingly refer to the CFDA as her �extended family�. And as if to echo the sentiment, when I asked Ashley and Mary-Kate Olsen, who were among the new inductees in attendance, what being a member of the CFDA means to them, they said, �As Diane has stated, it�s all about being part of an extended family�. Coincidentally, it�s obvious that family is very important to the talented and precocious 23 year old twins; they named one of their labels, Elizabeth & James, after two of their siblings.

Speaking of families (many or most of which are somewhat dysfunctional); there is that feeling that we in fashion, are part of one big �happy�, (or sometimes, �unhappy� family, as the case may be). But regardless, one of the fun aspects of attending these periodic get togethers, (�family reunions�), is not only meeting and greeting the �new�, but seeing �old� faces from the past; and when I do, it�s as though time has not passed.. On Wednesday, that included names like Sal Cesarini (who also spoke of how great it was to celebrate the young and the �new�); Mary Ann Restivo, and Cathy Hardwick, among others.

-Marilyn Kirschner

Tenth Annual National Design Awards

Francisco Costa winner of the fashion design award

New York is arguably the most eclectic and exciting place in the world. In this city, we expect to see a variety of interesting and unique people and celebrities. However, it�s not every day that one witnesses a gathering of such a diverse group encompassing the likes of an actor, an artist, a newscaster, a CNN anchor, a chef, a world renowned physicist, a broadcast journalist, a hotelier and fashion designer all under one roof. Last night, Cipriani on 42nd Street provided the venue for these and other fascinating attendees of the Tenth Annual National Design Awards. Champagne and Bellini�s circulated throughout the crowd as did hors devours which all seemed to be set atop a small piece of toast � goat cheese and asparagus, tuna tartar, etc. David Stark Design & Production created the giant number �10� which was graphically patterned with the names of all the winners and hung just inside the entrance.

Launched at the White House in 2000 as an official project of the White House Millennium Council, The Smithsonian's Cooper-Hewitt, National Design Museum celebrates outstanding achievement in design in various disciplines. First Lady Michelle Obama serves as the honorary patron of the 2009 Awards. This year, Francisco Costa (for Calvin Klein Collection) was selected as the winner in the Fashion Design category. Finalists in this category included menswear designer Thom Browne and sisters Karen and Laura Mulleavy of Rodarte. Francisco has twice been named Womenswear Designer of the Year (in 2006 and 2008) by the CFDA and when I asked him how this award compared, he replied, �It�s an amazing honor to be recognized by the Smithsonian for design� it�s different than being judged by my peers in fashion, it�s quite a humbling experience.� He added, �You don�t do the work to get awards, you do it because you love it. If awards come, of course, it�s nice.� While two CFDA awards are certainly nothing to sneeze at, when it comes to the National Design Awards, the process, requirements and judging are intense.

The 2009 nominations were solicited from a committee of more than 2,500 designers, educators, journalists, cultural figures and corporate leaders from every state in the nation. Nominees must have at least seven years of experience to be eligible and winners are selected based on the level of excellence, innovation and public impact of their body of work. Mr. Costa�s award was presented by actress and face of Calvin Klein�s latest ad campaigns, Eva Mendes who did not show up on the red carpet with Costa. I was standing next to a reporter from US Weekly who was hoping to get a quote from Mendes. �She NEVER talks,� the girl said. Who cares? Costa was more than gracious and quite obliged to chat and after all isn�t that who we�re interested in? He is the talent being recognized, not Ms. Mendes. Costa said, �The demographic of America has changed and we are able to reach a more diverse customer through Eva.� He talked about a sense of Americanism returning to fashion and that Calvin Klein was the master of Americanism. �That�s the essence of Calvin Klein,� he said �it�s a tremendous lifestyle brand. I�ve been looking through the archives and he (Klein) was such a visionary.�

In addition to Fashion, several other design categories were recognized. The winners and presenters are as follows: Corporate and Institutional Achievement Award to Walker Art Center, presented by artist Chuck Close; Product Design Award to Boym Partners presented by actor/writer/director/producer John Waters; Interaction Design Award (new this year -- celebrating exceptional work using digital technology) to Perceptive Pixel Inc. presented by CNN�s John King; Design Mind Award to Amory B. Lovins presented by broadcast journalist Charlie Rose; Lifetime Achievement Award to Bill Moggridge presented by industrial designer Niels Diffrient; Communication Design Award to The New York Times Graphics Department presented by New York Times executive editor Bill Keller; Design Patron Award to Lincoln Center President Reynold Levy presented by Katherine Farley of TishmanSpeyer; Interior Design Award to TsAO & McKOWN Architects presented by architects Machado/Silvetti; Architecture Design Award to SHoP Architects presented by architectural expert Reed Kroloff; Landscape Design Award to Hood Design presented by Professor and Architecture Program Director Achva Benzinberg Stein; People�s Design Award presented by chef Tyler Florence. People�s Design Award to Hans Eckholm, senior industrial designer for Trek Bicycles presented by chef Tyler Florence. The People�s Design Award allowed the public to vote for their choice of design between September 21 and October 20. The winner (Trek for the Lime - a coasting bike for the casual rider) was announced live at the National Design Awards Gala. Paula Zahn was the evenings emcee and other notable attendees included; Gala Chair Richard Meier, Gala Vice Chair Lauren Zalaznick, Ralph Rucci (last year�s winner in the fashion design category and 2009 jury member), designer Eileen Fisher, hotelier �ndre Balazs and John Maeda, Chair, President of Rhode Island School of Design (and also a 2009 jury member).

The Smithsonian�s Cooper-Hewitt, National Design Museum is the only museum in the nation devoted exclusively to historic and contemporary design. The museum is hosting National Design Week which takes place October 18-24. During this time, they will offer free admission to all visitors and provide a range of online resources celebrating design. National Design Week aims to promote a better understanding of the role that design plays in all aspects of daily life. Target is the sponsor for The National Design Awards and National Design Week. To find out more you can visit www.cooperhewitt.org

-Stacy Lomman

2009-10-20T07:10:00.005-04:00

Beautiful Is As Beautiful Does

More than just a few authentic followers of status fashion labels, especially when it comes to those followers of vintage status fashion labels, know well the name of Fratelli Rossetti, the venerable European brand, whose advertising tagline � �A Certain World Walks In Fratelli Rossetti� � originally caught the attention of chic, well-heeled, international women and men, across a myriad of glossy magazines, such as Harper�s Bazaar and Vogue. Today, the iconic company continues to serve up specialty collections of beautiful, wearable footwear and accessories for the well dressed and most fashionable client.

Most recently, New York City editors were treated to a private presentation of the company�s latest trend offerings � think Exotic Travel or Out Of Africa, and you get the point - at a most fitting address and location for this type of merchandise. In other words, what better place than the historic and grande, Italian Consulate on Park Avenue, in which to showcase an abundance of rich shoes and handbags for Spring/Summer 2010.

For all of the discerning and chi-chi women out there, the company offers up in its program notes, �A word of advice for ladies everywhere: open your umbrellas when the sun is out!� In this way, the company is touting a new addition to its line, a sandal called, �Emma� - all done up in pink suede and natural leather, with a cone-shaped heel, of course, - which, according to the company, is �inspired by women with a sense of adventure, who in the early Twentieth century abandoned the Old Continent, crossed oceans to follow their dreams, decided to start a new life far away�. For those who want to go a bit further by matching the footwear, the parasol is proposed.

Moving on to the rest of the women�s line, there are many of the company�s de rigeur sandals, courts, lace-ups, ballerinas and slip-ons - many adorned with coquettish, wide and flat bows - from which to choose; just about everything is rendered in multiple heel, material and color choices. Flats, wedges and platforms make the message of the moment, primarily seen in leather as the leitmotif, juxtaposed with calfskin, suede, tumble tanned and hammered effects with patent leather and laminates. Natural colors are most important, but for this editor, the tonals of black-and-white, alongside cornflower blue in glittery versnios, along with soft pink, olive green, coral red, dark brown and a groovy Prince of Wales check embossed onto suede totally did the trick for something different on the horizon. A definite standout across this collection is the summer-time suede boot, featuring a knubby, knitted leg; totally sexy, cozy and quite wearable.

Fratelli Rosetti�s bags, which are big, bold and touchable, make for a wonderful accouterment to the footwear. Done up in streesed-out and tumble-tanned leathers, canvas and lavish skin, this part of the collection is designed in shades that range from natural leather to a burnt color, and from ivory and cornflower blue, to green tea and cinnamon.

The men�s grouping, done in smooth and textural leathers and materials, in a bunch of colors that go from rough and rugged to hip, cool and sexy, follows suit, serving up a masculine array of sport, business and dress shoes � the slip-ons and deck shoes are great � that just about every guy out there will want to own and wear.

Taking into account the company�s message of �This man is made for that woman�, there are classic and cool, medallion on the toes oxfords, in textural leather; some vegetable dyed, applied by hand-patina. Next, there are desert boots with a new fashion spin this season, alongside glove-leather loafers (seen in classic styles and in an assortment of wild and acid-y, techno hues), thick, Goodyear Welt constructed, lace-ups (quite the l950�s look and feel of �Mad Men�s�, Donald Draper), as well as boating shoes with terry lining and classic Rossetti ribboning. The outrageous, mixed skin grouping, showcasing the most deluxe combinations of croc, lizard, python, in addition to solid croc is pretty groovy.

Proof that Fratelli Rossetti offers fashion and price for every man, The �Rossetti One� secondary collection, gives another dressing option, via a totally casual and quite affordable approach to breezy sneakers and shoes.

� Adrienne Weinfeld-Berg

2009-10-13T12:51:00.007-04:00

Thurgood Marshall College Fund Benefit Fashion Show

Saturday, October 24th 8PM at Roseland

Honoring Naomi Campbell, International make-up artist Sam Fine, Emmy award winning hairstylist Andre Walker. Dr. Joyce Brown and Jermaine Jackson will be accepting the 2009 Garde Award being presented posthumously to Michael Jackson. The designers participating in the runway fashion show include: Byron Lars, Russell Simmons Argyle Culture, Kai Milla Designs, Amsale and other very talented designers.

Click here to see our report on last year's show

For more information contact Judith Agisim Associates at Ajagisim@judithagisim.com.